I am trying to do the Porsche 962 I am building a bit of justice. In the magazine article I am using as reference for they “perfect paint job”, it mentions to polish the body carefully, to avoid taking paint off of curves and lines. My question is, what is your favorite technique when polishing a body with a lot of curves and sharp lines?! Please share your techniques!!
Well, I tend to get some rub-throughs no matter what I do. But on the latest one I did put on extra much clear coats, almost a full TS-13 can…some 5-6 wet layers. This gives more paint to work with when you polish it out.
My method is to start with the finest polishing cloth that will do the job, no reason to take the most coarse one if the finish is without or has little specks and orange peel.
Then I work my way down to, say 4000 or 6000 grit before polishing with Tamiya compounds and finish with Bare metal’s plastic polish.
Use some kind of sponge to support the cloth when sanding and avoid going to hard near sharp edges, some says you could put on some new paint if you rub through but I have never had any succes with that.
The key words are slowly and careful and you should be fine, the worst thing that can happend is that you have to do it over again.
One more thing, don’t try to repaint over a polished bodywork…you’ll most likely end up with fish-eyes in the new paint job. The compound seems to leave some ressidue that spoils any attempt to paint over it.
Hope I made any sense with this!?
Good luck and show us the progress.
Niclas
If you have a fairly smooth finish after painting, you should be able to start in with 3200 grit sanding cloths. The key is to wet sand it and always be aware of how much pressure you’re exerting. Be sure to use a VERY delicate touch on the corners and edges.
Wipe the body clean with a wet cloth to regularly check your sanding progress. Using this technique, work your way up to 12000 grit. The most critical stages are the course sanding cloths (3200,3600, 4000). If you can get through these without hitting the primer or plastic, your chances of ending up with a nice finish greatly improve.
Also, go with as many coats of paint on the model as you can.
Thanks guys I will keep these tips in mind. I am allowing it to dry a bit before my next wet coat, and then I am going to wait about 10 days for the whole thing to dry (I’m using enamels). I will let you know how it all works out!!
Has anybody tried using a dremel fitted with one of their felt polishing tips at low rpm?
I’m thinking about trying it on a project that I want to get wrapped up, but I’d like to get a sense of whether or not it’ll work from somebody who’s tried it.
A dremel might work i have not tried that
The highest sandpaper i use is 1000 should i look into getting higher? I went to auto store and 1000 was highest they had also
I tried it once using a felt polishing wheel, the results were disappointing. I used it to apply a glaze and wax to the polished out finish. The result was an ingrained streak in the paint finish. It was almost like the the glaze was part of the paint finish. I couldn’t buff it out.
I used my Dremel on its lowest setting (5000 rpm), which apparantly, is still way too fast for use on enamel paint. It would probably work on automotive paints, but I’ll never try it on hobby paints again.
Look into buying a sanding/polishing kit designed specifically for hobby paint finishes. LMG and Detail Master both offer these kits which usually come with sanding cloths ranging from 1500 to 12000 grit. If you can avoid sanding through the finish, sanding through the progressive grits will usually produce a mirror finish. Buy one of these kits, you won’t be disappoined with the results.