Hello, I have applied Tamiya rattle can paint (dark yellow) to which I’ve applied Tam acrylic (red brown) and model master acrylic (panzer olivgrun 1943) camo. I put on a coat of future, waited 48, applied decals and dried, applied another coat of future over the decals and waited 48 hours.
I now have in front of me a bottle of Model Master burnt umber enamel paint. Are mineral spirits the medium of choice to thin the enamel paint? Should my ratio be approx 4 parts mineral spirits to 1 part paint? I plan on covering the entire model w/my mixture. Once dry, I plan on highlighting (pin wash), using say a 3:1 ratio. So far so good?
I also have in front of me the Testors rattle can dull coat with which I have had mixed success…sometimes flat, sometimes satin. I also have the Model Master flat clear lacquer finish, which I am reluctant to use, will this be ok with the above paint? Should it be thinned? I know that Tamiya also has X-21 flat base. I understand that this needs to be mixed with future, but at which ratio. Can the above be brushed on or sprayed through my airbrush? I have heard of Pollyscale flat (please provide item number if this is the way to go), what needs to be done with the Pollyscale product? thinning? or just spray it on.
Any suggestions, preferences or links would be appreciated.
For a pin wash I presonally thin a lot more than 3:1. With a dark enough color like black, I go 6-10 parts thinner to one part paint. Experiment on an old model first, and unlike airbrushing, almost any consistancy can give you what you’re looking for, no need to be exact.
My pin wash is made with black Winsor and Newton oils and turpenoid. I like to mix it just a bit thinner than usual and give it several pin washes over the course of a couple of days. This way I can carefully gauge the darkness in my own wacky way. I use the Testors Model Master Dullcoat (Rattlecan) with no problems.
Are winsor and newton paints really worth it? I was at the store today and a tube the size of my pinky finger was like 12 dollars! seems like a lot to me.
The pinky finger sized tubes are usually artists water colors. Did you check? The oil colors are usually in much larger tubes, and cost about the same, depending on which series you buy. The oil paints, particularly, last forever. I’ve had mine for almost 4 years, and I’ve barely put a dent in them. I use oils and waters, and I consider both good value for the money.
Oils blend exceptionally well and stay wet much longer to allow you to work, change and eliminate them longer. Also, since they have such low surface tension, they get into all the deepest places. They look great when done and lots of tonal variety.
Yes, with disasterous results. This product is meant to stretch flat based paints or dull a gloss, NOT AS A FLAT COAT. I, and many of the folks on here, have made that mistake and got a “sugar-coated” look to teh finish. My recommendation is to get yourself some model master acrylic flat or some Polly-Scale flat.
And I’m one of them. In fact, it was my first ever post on FSM! Now that I know better I use Tamiya Flat Base and Future for my dull coat and it works beautifullly. The nice thing about the flat base is you can use adjust the amount of “flat” from semi-gloss to dead flat.
I am leaning towards the dead flat. What ratio do you use future:flat base? 1:1? 5 future:1 flat base? or does it not require much to be mixed with it ie. 1 future: 5 flat base?
I mix Polly Scale Flat with Tamiya thinner. I go really easy on the flat, just to be safe, and do repeat coats if necessary. I guess part Polly Scale to 2 parts thinner.