What is the recommended putty for filling seams and gaps on the older model car kits? Back when I was a kid doing models, there were no such thing that I was aware of. Getting back to the hobby, I would like to do a better job with my old kits. Also I will be using enamel paint.
Thanks Hearl
1 Like
I personally like to use Tamiya 2-Part epoxy for bigger gaps, and I also use Tamiya Grey Putty for smaller gaps and shaping! These are relatively easy to use, and really only require sanding to make the gaps flush!
I read somewhere that you can also use Vallejo Plastic Putty (similar to Tamiya grey as well). Don’t quote me on this one, but I thought I watched a video where someone used isopropyl alcohol to clean it up instead of sanding. I’ve yet to try it out, but does anyone else on here know?
Hope this helps! Happy modeling
1 Like
Yes that is a great help, I watched a lot of YouTube videos, but the more I saw, the more unsure I became on what to use. Thank you very much.
Hearl
2 Likes
I use Tamiya basic putty, auto glaze, or bondo. It all depends on what I am doing and how thick I need to lay the putty on.
1 Like
OK, thank you, I am only filling small gaps and seams on the models that I am working on now, thanks again.
Hearl
1 Like
I use Delux Materials Perfect Plastic Putty. Easy to work with, cleans up with water, and is USA made. Next choice is the Vallejo Plastic Putty. After that it’s sprue goo, A wizard inspired secret potion comprised of old pieces of sprue and liquid plastic cement. As always it depends on the application. Forgot to mention Bob Smith Industries makes some great fillers and glue/ but a bit spendy and harder to find.
1 Like
Great, good advice, thank you.
Hearl
1 Like
Do you know if the Vallejo stuff can be cleaned with either water or isopropyl?
1 Like
I’ve used both. The Vallejo doesn’t clean as easily as the PPP.
2 Likes
Water dissolves it quickly, wet or dry.
Agreed. The Vallejo is very soft and, for me at least, does not handle scribing or even sanding all that well. I use it for tiny gaps, where I can wipe it away with a wet q-tip before it dries.
Another option for filling gaps is gel-type superglue, carefully applied with a toothpick or similar – the great thing is it’s dry in minutes so you can get on to sanding and scribing right away.
1 Like
Good advice, I am going to try gorilla gel, seems a lot of people use it, thanks for the information.
1 Like
If you are up for trying something new, I have been pleased with my first experiences using UV cure putty to fill larger gaps. Just go on Amazon or your search engine and search “UV putty” to see some options. I have used the Colad putty… it has a viscosity kind of like toothpaste before it cures. If you don’t already have one, you’ll also need to get a UV light pen, anything that’s advertised as 395-405nm wavelength will work.
But please heed this warning: You don’t want to get any UV curing materials on your skin (similar chemistry to 3D printing resin), so always wear nitrile gloves when you use it.
Here’s the process I follow:
-Use your favorite putty tools to apply it in a layer no more than 1mm thick, then wipe away excess using a cotton swap moistened with Isopropyl Alcohol.
-When you are happy the putty is where you want it, shine the UV light pen on it for 20 seconds or so… it will harden pretty instantly under the UV light.
-Then repeat the process to build up another 1mm layer as needed.
-After you have the cured putty depth you want it can then be sanded, but wear a mask so you don’t breath the dust (frankly we should all be doing this while sanding any putty).
-I would recommend putting primer over this UV putty before painting, as I think most of us would do with any putty.
Give UV putty a try, I think you’ll be pleased with not having to wait as long as standard putty takes to cure. And in my experience the UV putty does not shrink or crack as it cures, or melt styrene like the old toluene-based putties would sometimes do.
2 Likes
Wow, great information, yes I am always up for something new and better, will check out Amazon tonight, thank you so much…
Hearl
1 Like
What brand of paint pens for enamel do you recommend, I have never used them, but seems to be a good way to make fine detail lines.
Hearl
1 Like
@ Hearl
The only paint pens I have used are various chrome pens (Molotow, etc.), mainly just for touching up the sprue attach points on parts that have been snipped off chrome sprues. As for paint colors in pen form I don’t have any experience with those. I’m still an old-school brush painter.
But I will share this helpful article on paint compatibility: Model Paint Compatibility Chart & How-To – Airbrush Modeler This has helped me avoid mistakes in adding the wrong types of paint on top of others.
1 Like
Thank you, I am an old school brush painter as well. Was watching some hobby painting videos, and it seemed interesting how one could paint trim and lines with the pens. I am happy with my models being painted the way I have done since I was 10 years old, but thought I would ask anyway, always willing to learn something new.
Thanks so much for the reply…
Hearl
1 Like