PL Refit, Advice needed *UPDATE*

Modeling Subjects Science Fiction
1

Hi again all,

I’m finished with the subassemblies on my 1701-A, and am (almost) ready to start painting.

Have a couple of questions first tho:

  1. What’s the best way to mask all the little windows and glassy-bits

  2. Do I leave whatever masking I use on from Primer to finish coat, or does it need to be removed and reapplied at each stage? I’m concerned about removal once the paint has dried.

And of course, any other tips/suggestions are greatly appreciated!!

Thanks!!

UPDATE Disaster!!! As stated below, I used Testors Clear parts cement to mask the glassy-bits. Now I can’t seem to get it off. I’ve tried peeling it off but it just wants to crack and chip. I do not recommend this technique.

I’m headed over to the painting section and see if anybody has any tips for getting my windows and such cleaned off.

2

Hi again,

After using the search function, I’m going to try using Testors clear parts cement as a masking agent. I’ll check back in and let ya know how it works out.

Thanks!

3

I’ve used Tamiya Liquid Mask on some of my models in the past, but have found it to be a bit hard to clean out of cracks/crevices. Another alternative that I’ve seen folks use is Elmers Wood Glue.

Yes, leave it on thru every stage prior to the final clear (Dull?) coat until the paint has fully cured. I recommend taking it off prior to your clear/dull coat. I’ve not yet built a 1/350 PL Refit, but have never had problems with the above method on other kits I’ve built in the past.

4

Another thing that I have seen done is using a leather hole punching tool to make little circles of masking tape. maybe tedious but it works.

5

Yeah patience is the key… I rushed the first PL refit that I did, and although it turned out ok, it kinda showed… This second one, I have stop started, stop started, but atleast I am not rushing it… It will get done, but I definately will do the small thinf properly!.. So I say, do what feels right, but dont cut corners!

Chris

6

Hi all,

Yep, I would definitely use masking tape next time (if I get a next time). I’m getting the paint and stuff off, but it’s a real bear. adding some liquid (spit) seems to help loosen it quite a bit.

Man, sometimes I really wish life had a rewind button…

7

Microscale has a mask called MICRO MASK !Liquid masking medium… Works Great!!!

8

Yep, but, I have been having troubles getting it off afterwards

9

Did you hold your tongue at 45 degrees like I said Ed?[:P]

Chris

10

Yeup. Tried that.

11

why didn’t you get the Aztec Dummy aztec masking set because it comes with window masks.(though I got version 2.0)

12

grrrrrr… I KNEW someone was gonna ask me that…

Honest answer? I did. But after applying all the aztecing, I just couldn’t stomach the thought of applying it to all the windows too. I figured “There’s just GOTTA be an easier way!!”.

So, valuable lesson learned.

I’m currently taking a break from it. I’ve got several places where the paint has lifted (peeled?) either from the aztecing or from masking and miscellaneous other painting mishaps so I’m gonna let my frustration settle down a bit.

13

a valuable lesson learned and this Monster is a learning experience.

Best thing to do when one gets flustered is to take a break from it. At least, that is what I do

14

Heya,

Does anyone use Parafilm anymore. That is what I used to use ( I am just getting back into building again). 10 years ago ( roughly ) it was the thing to use and abuse, not sure now.

Guido

15

Hey Guido, Welcome to the forums & yes, some people still use parafilm. I just tried

some Frisket last night on my P-51B for the first time and it worked pretty good on the

open green house canopy. Might be good to use on this Monster Refit too!![:P]

16

well as for me for the most part I am going to Aztec the saucer without the windows in place. Then assemble it later.

17

Use Micro Mask and then afterwards use a sharpened toothpick to peel it up.

18

That sounds like a plan. at least ya wont have to worry about masking the windows[:D] I’ll

probably try this since I’ve used the Micro Mask & have tried various methods to remove it. Tape, sharpened toothpick, Q-tip with alcohol, still had to revert to the back of a #11 blade to get it up tho[sigh]

19

did you try tweezers Ed? Because I use micro mask alot for clear parts and I just use tweezers to take it off with no problems.

20

Now once I get a corner up I’d grab it with the tweezers but, it’s trying to get the corner upthat kills me!![banghead]and then it breaks after a little tug so, back to pickin’ at it. I’ve pretty much got it all off the Ent. D I’m working on tho