Picking out a new airbrush

MikeV · January 1, 2005, 12:49pm

Yes I do remember that. My buddy identified it for you.
I sent him an email about the threads being that way and haven’t heard back from him yet. I will ask the same thing to Ken and see what’s up, although it may take a while to get an answer with the holidays and all. [:D]

Mike

MikeV · January 1, 2005, 6:14pm

Here’s your answer Hoser from my buddy:

QUOTE: Mike,
Your analysis is 100 % correct. The finer threads make for a much truer seal. Opening the head assy will cause an air leak and the air flow will stutter. The early models did allow a liitle loosening without this happening, but it was only an accidental by-product of the fine threads. Remember too, that the people building these airbrushes were expert craftsmen who were both engineers and machinists. And, they did so in a time when quality and precision were the desired end product. Each unit was always made to the exacting standards of the design and prototype, not like todays slam production techniques. As you know, I have a collection of vintage airbrushes that is about 98% complete as far as any airbrush made before 1960 (I have everything since then). I have painted with every airbrush that I own, even the ones from the 1800s. The early ones believe it or not, are all far better, smoother, and more precise than any of the ones we get today. My favorite of all of them is my 1900 Thayer Fountain"A". I would paint with it exclusively if it werent so valuable. My favorites in terms of design are the Wolds, they made so many more types of airbrushes than anyone else ever has, they are a trip. And, honestly, Olaos C Wold probably deserves more credit for Charles Burdick’s Fountain Airbrush than Burdick himself. But, Burdick was the “man”, and Wold was his helper.

The cool airbrush history lesson was free of charge. [:D][;)]

Mike

Hoser · January 2, 2005, 9:36am

OK, I stand corrected. It does make a difference though; give it a try.

Your buddy is right about the quality of the older models. The '40’s T&C has half the trigger pull of Iwata, but much smoother and better control, and it just ‘feels’ better. Granted, this one was well-used; that was obvious when I dis-assembled it for cleaning. (Ebay deal) Would love to see the work of the previous owner.

Thanks, Mike.

MikeV · January 2, 2005, 1:21pm

Glad I could help my friend.
I too need to find some of these older airbrushes and start a collection.
I think it would be cool to try them out and see the fine craftsmanship they used in that era.

Mike

Anonymous · January 4, 2005, 7:24pm

so that would mean an airbrush with super narrow threads and 5 cm of them would be the ultimate tweeker?

Anonymous · January 4, 2005, 8:55pm

I think the older airbrushes being better made is 1/2 right. It is true that they were made to a higher standard. Because of less of a relience on outsourcing parts. Most were made in house by very good machinist and more time was spent making them. EFBE are about the only airbruhses today that compare in my opinion. The modern production machines used to make airbrushes today are a lot more accurate and make parts at a much faster pace. But often quality is sacrifed for cost savings and looser tolerences are tolerated. I wish I still had my old Badger 100 side feed from mid 80’s it was a lot smoother and had a better fit and finish than my newer Badger models except for my Sotar. So much for the rant.
John

Anonymous · January 5, 2005, 6:59am

I have been using an Iwata Eclipse for about 6 years. It works pefectly with all of the original parts. I am meticulous about keeping it clean though.