and i like them!
they flow better than the MM paints, of which i have used both enamels and acrylics.
my only complaint is the tamiya paints tend to settle quickly, some more than others, like metallic grey settles fast than just red or blue for example. but they’re good paints and i enjoy them.
that and i like the bottles and caps they use, especially the caps! oh man i hate taking a cap off a mm bottle i havent opened in awhile, i know i’ll have to use pliers to get it open and that insert will stick and pull out of the cap. ugh!
i think their metallics look better brushed on than the mm paints do. i did a gun for my M1A1 with their gun metal paint and it doesnt look like it was put on by a brush at all, its fantastic.
thumbs up to tamiya for their paints.
I use Tamiya paint a lot and have to agree that it is very good. There are a couple of things I don’t like about it though. One, and admittedly it’s one that I cause, is that using isopropyl alcohol as an airbrush thinner causes their gloss paints to dry flat. Another is that trying to brush over the top of flat black is a lost cause. The new layer of paint (regardless of color) seems to always dissolve the flat black.
Oh yeah, to get the top off of MM bottles (or Tamiya bottles for that matter), just run hot water over it for a minute or so and it will turn loose just fine.
I use a lot of tamiya paints as I don’t have access to much else.
I think its excellent for airbrushing as it lays down perfectly everytime and I rarely have to use undercoats because it has a good bind to bare plastic!
Tamiya paints sound good, and they’re not that much more expensive than than Testors or Model Masters at my local hobby store. My only question is, how do they work with airbrushes?
I prefer Tamiya paints for airbrushing. You can get a super thin layer, so make sure that the finish of you model is good. Secondly, because of the thin layer, handle with extreem care. (and gloves[:D])
For airbrushing I use tamiya and MM exclusively, and to that, about 70% of the time, Tamiya. They really are great. The only problem I’ve had with them is hand-brushing, as it requires that coats be completely dry before applying the next. Also, I did notice that they do not dry flat and stay tacky when applied to the new Dragon vinyl that is glueable.
i’ve had a chance to actually use them and i like them.
the metallic grey goes on better than the testors metallics like aluminum or steel and when the paints dry they show the details better. i cant see a brush mark with their gun metal.
this paint is quite forgiving and i’m loving it. i’ve always sucked at hand painting and i’ve gotten better with practice but this paint really helped me a lot. the really small parts look so much better with the tamiya paints.
i havent airbrushed with it yet but i have a feeling i’m going to enjoy using them more than the MM paints.
I use about every kinda paint on the shelf and I like Tamiya too… gunze aquas is comparable
Well, I got some Tamiya tan today for the undercoat of my F-105D, that i will hopefully be airbrushing. Unfortunately, after I got home, I noticed I had picked up an acrylic (stupid). I’ve always used enamel for fuselage painting. How will it work, and will it turn out any different. How do Tamiya Acrylics work with airbrushes?
wetmonkey
WetMonkey… this is gonna sound very strange but it works. You can cut Tamiya Acrylic paint with Lacquar thinner. It works, I have done it myself. Just add the Lacq. thinner as you would any other thinning agent. Youll be very suprised at the results.
Thanks for the tip.[:)] My only concern now if for the rest of my camoflauge pattern. The fuselage will be sprayed with the tan acrylic I bought, but the camo is done with two different sahdes of testor’s enamel green. Will their be any reaction between the acrylic and the enamel?
Thanks,
wetmonkey
Let the acrylic cure AT LEAST 24 hour, 48 to be safe
Thanks. I feel a little better now. I was worried for a little bit, because I’ve put a lot of effeort into this Thud.
Thanks,
wetmonkey