I know the basic principle of photo-etching, haven’t done it yet, but I would like to try it.
But… I haven’t got any idea of what chemicals that I need to do so.
Can someone tell me what chemicals I have to get (no brandnames please, since I can’t get those US brands here in Belgium anyway),
also how much (how strong the solution…) do I need ???
Basicly, I need somebody to tell me what to do, to make my own parts (bucles, couplers, brackets…)
Thank you very much, my helpfull friends…[:)]
The September 1993 FSM issue describes how to make PE parts at home. The resist emulsion is a Kodak product as I recall. I don’t know who else makes it. I don’t remember what is used for the developer, but it is probably Kodak too. The etch solution can be either Ferric Chloride solution or dilute Nitric Acid.
you can all so use echant solution for making printed circut bords, the November 2003 FSM article “improved Intruder” discuses the technique.
Happy modeling
Brian.
Thanks guys, I’ll search my “archieves” for the Nov 2003 issue (in 1993 I’hadn’t even heard of FSM.
All hints and tricks concerning PE stay welcome.
I have neither, I’m afraid…
Radio Shack Sells a PCB echant solution. It’s just what ya need!! it’s about 4 bucks a bottle
At one time, Radio Shack had complete kits for photoetching, not just the etchant solution
Yeah, only problem ; here in Belgium we don’t have Radio Shack anymore (I think the last one closed about 15 years ago).
Today I have been looking for that November issue of FSM, but can’t find it anymore, but I found another issue were mr Pedro Andrada discribes his method
Step 1 Make a template (I suppose this mean a black “negative” printed on a slide ?
Step 2 Spray Photo-resist varnish on a copper sheet (at least one thing I’m sure I got right)
Step 3 Place the stencil on the copper sheet (after 45 hours) and expose to sunlight during 3 to minutes (does this really have to be sunlight or is daylight enough, cause here in Belgium we have more claudy days than sunny ones)
Step 4 Remove stencil and place the sheet in a solution 7gr NaOH/liter water. But here, Pedro doesn’t say how long the sheet should be submerged)
Step 5 Place the sheet in a solution of 50% HCL and 50% Peroxide,
after about 20 minutes ; rince with acetone.
Question ; in Step 2 do spray one side of the sheet, or both ?
Hello happy PE builders
Dan, you can see http://www.conrad.com or http://www.selectronic.fr as both shops are in Lille, I believe, and you will find everything you need for your purpose; anyway, you can go to any local electronic parts shop, as it is very easy to find this stuff there.
Yes RS STILL sells just the solution Not all stores carry it.
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog_name=CTLG&product_id=276-1535
Hello all,
a word of warning about photoetching at home.
I did it a couple years ago in my basement of my old home.
to obtain a good negative/positive you must use ultra violet light and we all know what tge dangers are of this light especialy in such concentrated form. I am not talking about getting a sun tan so protect your eyes and hands
then the chemicals to etch through brass I used ferric chloride heated to almost 40 degree celsius at this temperature the fluid will start to produce fumes wich will if not properly ventilated will also etch youre lunges.
I also found that to disposal of the chemicals after its use is also at least here in The Netherlands is a bit of a problem
You also have to be ready to expect a reject rate at least in my case anyway of tow out of five.
So I for one decided to leave this to the companys who specialise in this not only for the reject rate but most of all for the health risks for me and my family
If you want to hear more let me know I still have a few magazines about this subject but they are in dutch just let me know
cheers
Rob[:)]
I asked a friend who makes electronics at home and manages fairly well the etching of PCBs; he told me that is mainly a question of trial and error before you master the process ( and believe me, he masters the process himself) BUT when I showed an assortment of PE from several manufacturers, he told me that the finest ones, like Eduard, could not be chemical etching but mecanical etching ( laser or similar process ) . I know Eduard organizes open days but I didn’t go ( a long trip from France) and if my friend is right, I don’t see myself with such lab stuff, notwithstanding the price. On the other hand, chemical PE can be made at home, it’ s trial and error, but it’s a hobby , after all, so it’s a mostly respectable goal to learn new techniques, isn’t it ?
Thank you all, guys for the advice, and Rob, please e-mail me will you.
I tried to mail you, but your e-mail address is invicible.
José, thank you for the url of Conrad, it is abvious that they have everything I need, now it is just a matter of figuring out what exactly it is that I need.[:)]
De nada, chap
I used to etch a lot of printed circuit boards years ago, but have never tried it for making model parts.
If you are doing a “One Time” run that will only be used one time, creating a mask on mylar is not really necessary. I used to mark up the copper-clad boards with Sharpie marking pens, dry-transfer lettering, even tape. The only catch is that it has to be something that the etching solution won’t wash off. I didn’t try it, but something that virtually all of us have that would probably work just fine would be enamel or laquer based paint.
The etching solution works better when it is warm. If the temperature is cold, or the solution is old (it is reusable) it can take several hours to completely etch a board. To speed that up you can put a heat lamp over the tray of solution and warm it up while it is etching.
check this guy out
http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Fea1/601-700/Fea688_F-4_Greutert/fea688.html
he is way into this.
Later…
Brian
What can I say except he has more patience than I ever will have, have ever had, could ever imagine having. His work speaks for itself though. [:0]