Photo etched parts

Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials Tools
1

Hi folks,

I recently picked up a couple of kits with photo etched parts in them. What would be the best way to go about bending and shaping them for a correct fit?

2

I now have a specialised tool for bending the parts but did have a home-made one which worked ok.

You need:

  1. An old tile

  2. masking tape

  3. Stanley knife blade

Put a single strip of masking tape along one edge of the tile, then tape the blade onto the strip of tape so that the blade is facing into the tile, it should also be positioned so that half of the blade over hangs the first piece of tape.

To use, slide the piece of phto etch under the blade the put pressure on the blade along the line you nee to fold, take a razor blade and lift the PE part and bend to the required angle.

If you find the PE part does not fit under the blade then just add more tape in step one.

Hope this makes sense, here is a pic of mine.

And the tool designed for the job, which I am yet to use, from westcoast hobby.

3

Thanks for the info. I’ll certainly give your method a shot.

4

Hey, Thanks a lot! I was looking after that too. I’ll build mine just like yours.

5

These flat pliers are great for bending small pieces and wide tweezers work well too.

I do something very similar to Rob but I like to use a steel rule. When the piece you fold has a small side this will hold the piece a bit better. The angle of the blade may let the piece slip a bit. Try 'em both and use the one you are most comfortable with.

http://wingnutmodels.com/tools%20&%20tips.html

6

I managed to find a local distributor of the tool that the fellow above bought (sorry for not being able to name you, this forum has a rather odd interface) and if the price is right I may buy one. Failing that, I will certainly give all three methods a try.

Here’s another PE question, doe the PE part simply take regualr primer same as plastic? I currently use Tamiya and Vellejo paints.

7

I have primed the PE parts with a proper metal primer, I descovered the normal acrylic primer just peels off.

Also if the brass parts are plated, i.e silver in colour it is a good idea to run a lighter or match over them first to remove the plate, apparently this improves the surface ready for painting. I read that one in FSM I believe.

8

That’s good to know, thanks for the info.

9

How long should you hold flame to the PE part you are trying to clean? How can you tell when you are finished?

10

Ummmm, I’ve been back into modeling for over a year, mostly ships, and have never used the open flame method to “clean” PE. Sounds like a good way to cause problems to me! What you need to do with brass or stainless steel PE is remove the light oil sheen and give the smooth metal some “tooth” for the paint to stick to. I do that by immersing the frets in a vinegar bath for about 10 minutes, rinsing with fresh water and allowing them to air dry. Never had any trouble with either enamel or acryling paint sticking or, worse, flaking off, after a vinegar bath.

11

What you are actually doing when you apply a flame to photo etch is annealing or softening the metal. Since plating the brass sheet makes it harder than the origional brass, annealing in turn makes it easier to bend. Applied to a sheet of brass photo etch, it makes it easier to form the item into a curved shape such as the back of a WW I pilots seat. Just becareful applying the flame as you can deform/destroy the part.

And as far as the application of acrylic paint to photoetch parts, just before you apply your paint, dip the part into vinegar for a minute or two then rinse, dry and apply your paint. The vinigar will etch the brass surface, giving it some “tooth” for the paint to hold onto.

12

I picked up an old Brown & Sharpe vernier caliper which would not hold a calibrated zero. The straight edge of the jaws when opened and closed on the item which needs a 90 degree bend allows for a smooth bend when using a burnisher like a paint brush handle.

13

annealing them over a flame for a moment sotens them. then many use the tamity photo etch bending pliers.

14

Although they are nice to use, I don’t have the means to own specialty bending tools for PE. I had on hand a set of carpenter’s wood chisles of different widths that I use for bending PE. Just hold down the PE at the bend line using the proper width chisel and bend it up with another. Quick…easy.

15

I find conventional (flat blade) screwdrivers make fine chisels for bending PE. I have a set of modelers screwdrivers that are too soft to drive screws with, but make fine chisels of various widths for bending PE :slight_smile:

16

I do not profess to be a pro at PE…probably not even an amateur…but anyways, I was given the tip from another modeler that instead of painting the PE, to try immersing in gun blue. I bought a bottle (actual a whole gun bluing kit) and it works pretty good. Turns the PE sort of a dark greyish/black colour. Just remember to dip the piece in water to neutralize the effects of the blue, otherwise it will keep dissolving the part!

17

I buy a bottle of gun metal bluing from one of the local box stores - you can get “Birchwood Casey” bluing. No kit necessary to get a perfect finish. I use this to reblue tools, allen wrenches, and Floyd Rose (guitar) Tremolo parts. Also you might want to consider a jewelers’ anvil. You can find these at Joann Fabrics, Micheals, Hobby Lobby, etc. This would allow you to bend without breaking your part, or deforming it.

~ Cobra Chris