Can anyone out there help me with some technique ideas for installing photo etched railings? I am normally a very patient man but I found myself almost launching a 1/700 U.S.S. Enterprise at a scale 2000mph!!![:(!] Ya’lls help is most greatly appreciated.
I normally use Gold Medal Models photo etched parts and use both super glue and good ole Elmer’s white glue to stick down railings. For straight runs of railings I use white glue and apply it with a fine piece of wire chucked into a X-Acto knife blade handle. I put a dab of glue on a lid off a can of Planters peanuts, dip the tip of the wire applicator, which has a bent tip at about a 45 degree angle and about 1/16" long, into a bottle cap full of water and then into the dab of glue. Holding the strip of railing in place with a pair of tweezers, I run a bead of the thinned glue behind the bottom of the railing. (Three or four extra hands would come in handy here). Normally I will tack down both ends of the railing first and then when it is stranding on its own, I’ll finish applying the glue. Elmers drys clear and has enough adhesive power to hold up the railing. The railing can also be straightened when the glue is dry you notice that it is leaning by gently bending it back upright with a pair of tweezers. To avoid chipping the paint, I spray paint the railing before applying, I apply small pieces of masking tape over the tips of the tweezers. If you mess up, and I do that quite frequently, Elmers can be pulled up when dry without damaging the finish of the deck or the railing. To get a grip of the glue I use a needle, also chucked into a knife handle, to gently pry up a corner and then with a pair of curved needle tipped tweezers, pull up the dried glue.
For railings with compound curves, I use Zap a Gap super glue and apply it also with a fine piece of wire chucked into the knife blade handle. I’ll first dry fit the piece of railing two or three times to make sure it fits before applying the glue. I also use a pair of dividers to measure the railing before cutting it. Zap is trickier to use than Elmers, sets up fast, and if you screw up, tends to mess up the deck. Patience is indeed the key here and I probably have more pieces of railing on the floor of the hobby room than I do on my models! And I work with 1/350th scale solely.
Presently I have just started Panda’s 1/350th DDG, which I am building up as the USS Stethem, and comes with a photo etched set of its own and DML/Dragons 1/350th Ticonderoga Class CG which is going to represent the USS Vicksburg and will have the GMM photo etched detailing.
Hope this helps.
Dick McC
In addition to Dicks excellent attachment methods, here’s a little illustration of the preparation steps. I’m at the railing stage of a 1/570th Titanic project, so your post is a timely one indeed, thanks! [:)]
Take care,
Frank
I just finished the Arleigh Burke myself. It has the stainless steel pe and let me tell you, what came in my kit is really thick and out of scale. I went ahead and tried the WEM extra fine railings. They are almost too fragile to work with. Starting to sound like the “3 Bears”?
Started on the DML Mobile Bay hull last night while half watching the Oscars. This one’s getting the GMM Ticonderoga/Spruance PE set.
Tom’s Modelworks or Flagship just came out with an “Ultimate Burke” PE set. Unfortunately, I was well underway with the detailing when I came across their ad.
I’m goin’ to try Dick’s method with the Elmer’s next time. If you don’t like it, at least you can wash it off.
Thankyou so much gents! I found out last night that my patience may have been affected by a sudden bout of the flu. I will definatley try this approach as soon as I am better!