I have trouble with peeling paint when removing masking tapes. I usually use tamiya acrylics with tamiya masking tape. After airbrushing or hand painting and leave to dry over 24 hrs, some parts still peel however careful I tried. I have to retouch them by hand n It looked awful, any suggestions?
Hi Steve & welcome
Lots of possible causes here. [:S]
The surface needs to be as clean as possible, clean model before painting, washing up liquid & rinse well.
In my experience, Tamiya acrylic doesn’t like to be thinned too much, if it is it won’t stick to anything.
The tape may be too sticky, Use Tamiya tape, but run the sticky edge through your clean fingers.
The Tape may be left on too long, ‘welding’ to the surface.
Tape works best when sprayed over , if you use a brush, paint build-up on the edge of tape will cause problems.
you might consider masking the bit you just painted & attempt to repair the lift ‘from the other side’
I did some D-Day stripes on a tiny Piper Cub, about 5-6 times, so I feel your pain.
Fast on & fast off!
NEVER leave masking tape on for more than a day. Like said above tone down the adhesive by dabbing the sticky side on your fingers. Just burnish down the edge, the rest can ‘float’ over the model, also don’t mask the whole area with tape. Use a plastic bag once the tape is away from the paint line.
When removing pull the tape at a 45 degree angle away from the separation line close to the surface. Some carefully cut the edge first with a new #11 hobby blade. If you can remove the tape before the paint is 100% cured, dry to the touch is the best window of opportunity for this.
If using enamel paint a drop of rubbing alcohol will soften the tapes adhesive. This also works for removing blue poster putty.
Good bare surface prep is essential, especially if you don’t use primer - a wipe down with alcohol shortly before painting is effective.
Let the paint cure for a reasonable time, especially in damp / cold conditions.
Remove masking as soon as possible after painting & like said, don’t leave it on for any longer than required (for example, don’t mask & set aside to paint another day).
The magic word is, prime. At least that’s what works for me.
Last April I was working on a Revell 1/48 F-15. I primed and painted the engine area with Alclad then masked it with Tamiya tape. It was several weeks before I got back to it. Shot 3 color camo with Tamiya acrylics. Sat for a few more weeks and I shot several coats of Future. Sometime in September I got back to it and did the decals, reshot Future then Dullcoat and pulled the tape. Nothing lifted and the Alclad looked just like it did when I shot it. I wasn’t overly cautious but was careful not to spray heavily on the tape edges.
I generally try to pull tape as soon as I can after painting but if you’re going to recoat the area around where you masked you can get away with leaving the tape in place rather than pull it and remask a half dozen times. And you need to be careful anytime you remove tape like pulling it back over itself at an angle and taking your time.
Tony
I can’t add much more than what’s been said. If you’re going to wash your model, I almost always wash with several sprays of Windex, which cuts through finger oils and mold release very well.
But, I’m with Wingman about the primer. It may be more work, but I really prefer a strong surface that I don’t have to worry about messing up. You can always try rattle can primers. Anything lacquer-based makes a great primer (like the Alclad). If fumes are a problem, the Vallejo urethane-acrylic primers are great. I’ve been using the grey and am thinking of switching to it full time for my priming needs.
Cheers
First, I will agree with the others re: a clean surface and primer. I tend to mask the stuffing out of my builds (if there’s any way I can airbrush something versus brushing it, I will, which often means I have to mask), and apart from one or two tiny chips here and there, I never have problems with paint lift-off.
I tend to bounce around with my primers, but my favorite is good old Model Master primer.
Man…you must either paint very fast, paint simple schemes, or enjoy remasking over and over again! I would say probably fully half of my aircraft builds have SOMETHING masked off throughout the entire principal painting. ID bands, invasion stripes and so on.
My current build is sporting long-term masking over the entire cowl and cockpit deck. It’s been on for about two weeks now, and has another few days to go before I’ll be ready to pull it off.
I’ve found “de-sticking” masking tape by sticking it to the palm of your hand a few times really helps. Also…not sure if it works for tape, but it works great for poster putty - stick the kit in the refrigerator for a half hour, then peel the stuff off. Works like a charm.
Yeh, I really want to try the Vallejo primers. Not the first time I’ve heard good things about them. Don’t recall the exact name or number but I use a DuPont automotive acrylic lacquer primer. Thin the heck out of it and shoot it through the airbrush.
And, I mean no disrespect but, I don’t stick my tape to anything but what I’m masking. Stick it to clothing and you get fuzz, stick it to your body and you get the oils on it you tried so hard to get off your model by wiping and washing. I know a lot of folks don’t want to use lacquers of any sort but unless you spray it over a puddle of oil, it sticks. [:D]
Tony