Hi everyone. Being new to this hobby, I’ve been doing a lot of reading up on painting and weathering techniques. But it seems the more I read, the more questions I have. I guess it boils down to the individual’s preference. But I would like some advice (whether its correct) on the sequence and technique which i’ll be using on my finished sherman.
Prime the model (I’m using Mr Surfacer 1200)
Apply Base color. (Olive Drab)
Apply shading on center of flat surfaces (lighter shade of olive drab).
Apply clear gloss on model (using tamiya acrylic clear gloss)
Apply decal. (set with Mr Mark Softer)
Apply wash on entire model. Any advice on which is better with oils?Turpenoid or mineral spirit?
Wipe off excess wash.
Wait to dry and hope for the best.
Appreciate if anyone can advise if there’s anything wrong with the sequence or if possible provide a link where the whole process and sequence of painting and weathering armor is explained.
First of all, let me welcome you to the forums and to the dark side!
I’ll tell you how I do my builds, and I’m sure that you will receive more info on your questions as the day goes on.
1-After building I give the model a good wash with liquid dishwashing soap and then let it air dry.
2-I do not use primer unless I’ve had to do a lot a flling and sanding, which on your Sherman you should not of had to do (hopefully).
3-Apply the base color.
4-Apply decals. I set mine with Micro-Sol. I do not use Future as I’ve never had any trouble with decals not setting properly. Lucky I guess.
5-Apply wash to the entire model. I use thinned enamel or pastels (chalk, NOT oil) thinned with water. Remove excess with mineral spirits (for enamel or water for pastels).
6-Drybrush with a lighter shade of the base color to bring out the highlights.
7-Weather with pastels or paint. If weathering with pastels, you will want to apply them heavier than usual so when you apply a dullcote, the pastels won’t all blow away.
8- I finish with a coat of dullcote.
I use enamels as you can tell. With you using acrylics, everything is about the same.
Hope this helps…good luck, and lets see some pics when you are done.[:D]
Hey Woeyd welcome to the forums. Your sequence looks good. Here are my additions. All are completely optional and just suggestions.
(5b in your numbering) I usually do a sealer coat after the decals also. It helps to get rid of decal lines.
(5c) Detail Painting before washes - brake lights, headlights, tools etc.
(5d) Drybrushing before washes - highlight raised details and wear areas
(7b) Sometimes a final sealer coat at the end.
(7c) Final optional satin or dull coat
Sometimes I skip 5b. The sequence varies but I try to get in a final sealer coat at some point after the decals (sometimes before washes, sometimes after)
Been doing a bit of reading again. Great group of forummers here with loads of ideas and techniques.
I noticed drybrushing being mentioned by both of you and can it replace the shading technique mentioned in step 3? The plan I have was to do post shading so that the model doesn’t look “flat”.
I’ll be taking the plunge tonight and start with steps 3, 4 & 5 (including drybrushing)…wait 24hrs to dry… proceed to 6,7, 8 and apply dullcote.
The shading that your talking about adds depth to the work that drybrushing doesnt really do. I guess it could but it’s alot of work. Drybrushing should be subtle and is best used in moderation (less is more). Here is a pic of my 1/72 half track. I used shading like your method on the overall model and drybrushing on the gun, jerry cans, mortar, and figs. Just my opinion. Post some pics of your model if you can.
I have been thinking about the shading process and was wondering if the effects of several washes can achieve the same result. Thinking of not doing the shading this time round and rely on the washes to do the trick.
I’m not really good at mixing colors and I really do not want to end up with a color thats not right.
woeyd, try doing the wash method first. If it does not look good to you, you can always add more color if its too light, or more thinner if its to dark. The good thing about using a wash is that it can be removed with little effort…then you can start again. If you have an old model to practice on, that would be the thing to do, until you get the results that you are looking for. Hang in there!![^]
ok I am not a tanker but here is my sequence for aircraft, and I think we all try the same as far as weathering (try for the same effects)
clean model before painting
depending on the paint, prime (I usually do for acrylics)
Paint base coat and any camo overcoats. - here is also where shading would take place…
3b. <on a tank here is where I guess I would paint detail pieces, on aircraft most of them are separate from the body so I dont do this>
Coat with future
apply decals
future again (really helps reduce decal lines and protects the decals from the dry coat, which I have had eat off a decal or two)
use washes and/or pastels to weather
Future again
Dull Coat
After this any detail pieces get applied which I usually weather seperately as to make sure the areas under bombs etc get the same effect as the rest of the bird… on armor I would imagine you would want to weather them ON the model as to allow for things like direction of mud spatter etc getting blocked by something like a light or a tool box…
