PAGE 3--FINISHED PIC!!! Cyber Hobby 7.5 cm Sturmkanone suf Pz 38(t)

Well, before the Holidays take me into my “gift” building for some people, I’m treating myself to model I’ve wanted to put on the shelf for a while here–the weird prototype 7.5 cm Sturmkanone mounted on the 38 (t) panzerjaeger chassis.

The Cyber Hobby kit of this is really nice, but as usual per Dragon instructions, the instructions are really vague as to some of the placements of certain items, and not structured very well, IMO. I had some real issues with the front plates already–next update will show that.

But here’s where I am so far…the construction of the bogeys. The way they tell you to construct these is really difficult if you don’t add that fitting to the bottom of the hull first–where the leaf springs attach.

The vehicle has an interior–here’s parts of the transmission:

Before adding the fenders, I wanted to do the tracks first–easier to do them without fenders, IMO. But before I could do that, I had to secure the wheels on the tank, and they’re really a pretty loose fit–no poly caps ala’ Tamiya here–so I had to seomhow get them to stay on the posts. I fixed some tiny strips of masking tape over the pegs to provide a little bit of “interference fit”…

and then put the wheels on over the tape; this sticks them pretty well…

I glued the idler wheels on–but good luck getting a locating tab or peg on the directions for the rotating, 90o post! You gotta “eyeball” 'em–here’s the correct position; the outside rim touching just the inner rim of the steel part of the wheel:

Man!–sign me up for these “Magic Tracks”! [:P] They fit right inside of each other like a glove! I assembled them the same way I always do–a strip of masking tape, sticky-side up, held down on each side with strips, and just stick the tracks on the strip, and when I get a length long enough, run a brush loaded with Testor’s Liquid cement down the middle and sides, and go wash the dishes or something for 45 minutes/ an hour or so to let them set. Then, pick them up gently and wrap them around the tracks!

…a little bit o’ sag…!

When the tracks are set (overnight), you can remove the whole assembly (plus wheels) for painting!

New update soon–I’m actually got quite a bit more done since these were taken three days ago–had a major emergency with “Brother Merve” today; spent most of it at the animal hospital…me and Jenn’s little buddy’s not doin’ so well… [sigh][BH]

Gonna be doing a “splinter camo” finish on it, with relatively lighter weathering, as it was only a prototype!

Comments or questions welcomed!

I’ve heard it referred to as ugly, this half Marder, half Stug III … but after you look at it awhile it does kinda grows on ya, doesn’t it? I’ve been eyeing the Aufklarungspanzer 38(t) mit 7.5cm Kw.K. myself.

BTW … is that your official model building shirt? You’re wearing it in every build photo, er plate, er picture … you know what I mean. [xx(]

Ugly is good :slight_smile: a streamlined tank is just no fun [:D] any country can make a pretty tank! [:O]

I’ll take a Whippet over a Leopard, a Stuka over a P51, anyday!

Ha ha! “GO UGLY”!! That’s why I like the A-10. [;)]

Post some more pics of the build doog when you can. Make a swan out of this duck. [:D]

Doog,

I am trying to learn the tread technique you employ, and understand it except for the type of glue. Are you just using liquid plastic model glue from a glass bottle? I ask because I recently bought Tamyia liquid glue and wonder if I can substitute for testors, or should I get the testors?

Thanks for all the help. Model looks cool, can’t wait to see it painted.

LOL! [(-D] Nah, that’s just the “Doog Save-on-laundry-bils strategy”! I generally wear one shirt around the house until it developes like, cracks in the arms! LOL!

I’ll probsbly be posting soon–perhaps later today? [:D]

Citadelgrad, just use a slower-setting glue–I haven’t tried th eTamiya stuff, but as long as it’s not like Tenax R7 which bonds and evaporates extremely quickly, you should be ok. You just want to get to the point where the tracks are bonded-but-flexible, and also, it’s important that the glue has dried up on the inside faces of the tracks where they come in contact with the wheels; you don’t want them sticking to the wheels yet.

Give them 15-20 minutes and check them for bond strength and flexibility. Good luck! [:D]

Never heard it put that way.

!http://th279.photobucket.com/albums/kk127/scottysweb/smileys/th_slaphappy.gifCracks in the arms…

!http://www.thelastsuperman.com/disastermaster/a-disastermaster-signature-1.jpg

A really neat and strange vehicle you’ve chose doog, looking forward to seeing this one come to life. [;)]

I LOVE ungly things. A-10 and your build. BUt only you doog can make such an ugly vehicle look beautiful.

Looking forward to your build, keep up the awsome work.

I think this is less uglier than Marders. Looking foward to seeing this come together doog

Looking good Doog - should be an interesting finish! Looking forward to the splinter scheme. [tup]

Hope Merve is doing better. [:)]

Thanks guys!

And a special thanks to you, dupes–Merve is indeed doing better, Thank dog–he had a gas bubble in his belly which stopped him from eating, and he was constipated–guinnea pigs are so sensitive to diet changes. He made it through minor surgery, and he’s his old weekin’ self!

Well here’s some updated shots–I got the interior painted up. As this was a prototype, I could only find one picture of a mock-up for reference, so it’s all pretty much conjecture as to the painting. I figured this was probably close to correct colors. The transmission is a mix of Vallejo German Uniform Grees and Tamiya Panzer Grey. Washed with raw umber, and drybrushed with silver+van dyke brown. I kept weathering/chipping to a minimum, but realized that in a white interior like this, a bit of very fine drybrushing of a steel colr brings out the lines of the pieces better.

The gun assembly, unpainted:

And the big superstructure…by the way, these aren’t glued on yet, just placed in place fo now…

The front hatch will be left open–38(t)'s often traveled this way to help cool the transmission and brakes.

With the gun assembly installed:

I still have to add the radio and the shell rack inside the walls there…

Man–don’t pick up your fraulein in this beast! What an uuuugly ride, huh? I LOVE IT!

Well, I still have some minor details to do–the tools are all PE clamps, and then I’ll be on to initial painting…Watch this space!! [:P]

Nice build doog. Dont know why couldnt you pick out a better looking panzer instead of this ugly ducking wannabe a StuG.

Anyway, what color is that for the floor ? Looks like Red Hull with black washes ? Looks intersting.

No problemo, Doog…I know I would be seriously bummed if anything happened to either of my two cats. [BH]

Interior looks really good - are those brass shells? Or a molded rack you painted brass? [tup]

Ah, a big difference after seeing it from these angles. The side shot on the website really made it look unappealing but now, seeing it this way it’s much better. And the roof was an unexpected detail.

Keep up the nice work. [:P]

Very nice! I’m especially diggin’ the work on the interior! [tup] [tup]

Thanks, guys!

Correct you are, Carves–Hull Red with a wash of black and raw umber; then a very spotty wash of red oil for depth.

dupes, that’s just the kit part. I had some Panther brass shells that I’ve had forever, but they are just slightly too big!

Jeff–I was surprised about the roof too–I had thought it was an open-top?

Scott–thanks; I’m pretty happy about the interior too. Not too busy to paint, and mostof it is hidden anyway, so not too much regret about closing it up. The open tranny hatch shows a little of the brake drums there too…

Go to tank.boy.jp/ and scroll down just alittle.On the right you will see a 7.5cm Stu.Kan.Click on it and it will open a page that may be of some interest and assistance.Click on the pictures for additional pictures.Hope this is of some interest.Ted Nichols

Nice job Doog! I realy like the intirior painting and weathering!

Good to hear your Guinnea pig’s feeling beter.

[:)]