For the first time in a while, I’ll be painting something (an 8" howitzer) OD, and as I’m getting ready to put the paint on it occurred to me that there might be a better way.
I usually blackprime, spray on a few progressively-lighter OD-like coats with an airbrush, give a light oil-based blackwash and then weather.
Anyone have suggestions on painting methods that yield better results with OD?
Larry,
My personal preference is to post shade. I paint it all OD. I like XF-62 from Tamiya. Dial the airbrush down to a fine line and really thin down the paint to where you have to do several passes to see progress. I do the shading and some slight highlights like this. I find it works very well. Then do the washes, scuffing and sratching as usual… But thats just me… Here are examples. The first is after the airbrush only shading and the other is after weathering. Hope this helps
my2cents…
Here’s my opinion, consider the source.
I sprayed My M4 hull and bogies with Tamiya black, then Tam OD. I found it very dark.
I plan to eventually do some lighter weathering coats and I don’t think I’m going to preshade black on the upper parts. As for now, some running around the back yard (it’s the 1/16 RC) has dusted up the bogies pretty well to a good effect.
I’m still up in the air.
All I’ve ever done was spay over all with OD, Ink wash the entire model, drybrush with base color then progressively lighter base color until I like it. [2c]
Just recently, I discovered that pre-shading works well for me. I mix OD with a little flat black and spray it on corners and areas most likely to be dirty. Then I spray OD overall but thinly on pre-shaded areas. Sometimes when the shading is really good little wash is necessary.
Where needed, I mix OD with a little flat white and drybrush.
When drybrushing, don’t add white – it makes it look very chalky. Use German Dark yellow (ochre) instead. OD was black with ochre and the Dunkelgelb is a good match (S Zaloga swears by this formula).
While not a tracky thingie, I am using the Tamiya OD on the top of my P-39. After a primer coat of white, I sprayed it on and feel it is a bit dark. I plan on masking off certain panels and using the MM OD which is a bit lighter…and then weathering with pastels.
I cut a 10ml bottle of Tamiya XF-62 with a teaspoon plus of their Flat Yellow, then a 1/2 teaspoon minus of their flat white. XF-62 is too dark for me. If someone has a better mix, I’d be glad to hear it …
Also a good mix for tires; I use a homebrew of RLM Grey, Semi-Gloss Black, & Gloss-Black.
I prime for sanding & clean-up, then just put on the OD-mix, then handle the rest with my own version of post-shade & weathering, usually some combo of wash, dry-brush & pastel. There don’t seem to be enough nooks, crannies, and flat surfaces on the gun like on tanks to do too much else …
I spray with OD in a can and then mistakenly leave it in the rain. I then go to a hobby shop and verbally berate the shop owner for not having enough armor in the shop. I then come home complaining about how much the models cost these days and then put my tank in the kitchen to dry off.
After the requisite self flaggelation followed up by self effacing, I then sit in my safe place (commode) and read my issue of FSM.
None of this was meant to be advice. Listen to everyone else. I am merely a freckle on the hindquarters of life.
not sure how i can follow that, but i will try anyway [:D]
i found the Tamiya paint to be a bit dark for my liking when i painted my T-34/85.
instead of white, i lightened it w/ Deck Tan.
also, continued to lighten from that ‘base’ to post shade for fading on horizontal surfaces.
i have not had any luck pre-shading, as i tend to completely cover the shading
when i shoot the base coat. [:o)]
perhaps as my technique improves . . .
w/ the little bit of armor i have finished, i tend to paint the colors ‘light’
and then wash the heck out of them.
Any ideas of what I use to lighten British Brozne Green? I’ve been using Humrol #75 on my Firefly and love the way the base coat looks. I’m tempted to try lightening it with a bit of Trainer Yellow, but don’t want it to go bright. Also, anyone have any experience mixing Humbrol paints with Model Master enamels?? I’ve mixed them with good success with a bit of oil paints, but never tried mixing them with other enamels.
Ok, so it’s an old song, but I’m sure some of you know it. GUYS?
[:-^]
Anyways, thanks to all for the responses. Dwight, I am interested in trying out the pre-shading method, but it might be a little over my head. In my current project, though, a gun, I’m trying to figure out just what corners I would be making darker, if you get the jib of my jab.
I think I’m going to go with the straight OD method on the gun and see what happens. You all will see too. One problem will be that I won’t weather it til the prime mover is done too, so it’s going to look fairly one-dimensional when it is initially built up.
Forgot to mention, Kenneth, that Sherman is quite cool-looking. Nice job.
Larry:
If I were to pre-shade/weather your gun, I think I’d limit it to the bogey assembly and the base of the carriage, and maybe just a tad on the sides of the mount where there are some “ribs” & things.
John
It’s boring…dull…drab even, give me some dunkelgelb, dark green, red … [}:)] [:p] [:D]
Ok, maybe not what you’re looking for. I’m actually just trying to get a rise out of Robert [;)]
I’m doing my first OD subject right now myself, I’ll let you know if I come up with any earth shattering discoveries…oops, almost fell asleep thinking of that OD [:p] [:D]
I usually use Model Master for this. Before, I used it straight out of a rattle can, then weathered. Now, I’ll preshade in black, then use MM Acryl to paint over. Don’t really like Tamiya for OD, as the colour is just way too dark.
Pre-shade - dark or black
Coat w/olive drab, olive green, khaki darb, whatever you are using
lighten color ( w/white or buff is nice as well ) spray middle of panels and raised area
drybrush w/ buff - again raised areas
then ( this a secret I an divulging here)…
Stipple drybrush w/buff - take a round very old brush w/lots of frayed bristles and dab the buff ( dry brush ) on to simulate beat and weathered areas - be careful - you have to feather the effect in so it doesn’t look like somebody just throw mud pies at your vehicle
Give that a try - again - feathering will be important
Actually Steve Zaloga is suppose to come out with a new book from Osprey on finishing armor - soon - don’t know when