When using this method over a dullcoted kit, what do you use to thin the oils down with? I tried this on another kit and used OMS but It stripped right through the dullcote and the enamel down to the primer, the dullcote had been dry about 3 hours, any hints?
Dullcoat is a lacquer and an oil filter using mineral spirits or tinner of that nauter will eat through that an dthe enamel and primer if it is enamel too. The dot filter like doog does is over acrylic paint. If oyu want to use the components you have now you will have to put a barrier of Future. The dot filter get a lot of its effect, i think anyway, from going over a flat surface…as in flat paint. You can add flat base to Future to make it flat.
Whats curious is Doog Doesn’t use future, He dullcoted his hetzer, and when it dried he used oils right over that?
Guys, I do a similar wash over MMII enamels after using Testors glosscoat. Then making a mixture of the enamel colors the piece was painted with along with a complimentary oil paint mixed with turpenoid (odorless turpentine). Then cover with a filter followed by a pinwash, and then dullcoat with excellent results, am I missing something that you are refering to?
But Doog used Acrylic paint, and on his second Hetzer tutorial he didn’t even use Dullcote. For the oil dot method, you have to do a acrylic-enamel-acrylic or vice-versa layering pattern and since Future is acrylic based it’s what you should use to coat your enamels before you do the dot method.
Doc,
You’re able to do this because you’re using turpenoid and it doesn’t interact with the enamels and lacquer base of the dullcoat. Mineral spirits or traditional thinner will eat through both if there isn’t an acrylic barrier (such as Future) to protect it. The oil-dot method requires repeated brush strokes to achieve its effect and that will scrub through paint, even cured paint, if done aggressively enough. I suspect this is what’s causing lexes’ problem.
Thanks guys, I’ll have to pick up some turpenoid.
Ok, Ill piggy back a quickie here…
I have enamel basecoat, Future coat, then 'oil dot" wash with oil paints in odorless/turpenoid thinner. So far so good, no problems. I was going to follow with testors dull cote (lacquer-based), which should also be no problem… but I am thinking, where to “slide” the pin wash step? I use 10:1 thinner/enamel for a pin wash, since I like how the enamel “flows” and the fact that the thinner evaporates in situ.
Should I perform my pin wash with odorless/turpenoid? But will that affect the underlying dot filter wash?
I am leaning towards misting couple coats of Future, then doing the pinwash using odorless/turpenoid thinner, followed my Testors dullcote, then the weathering dusts.
Any other suggestions??? Thanks!
I’d recommend the pin wash before the dull coat. The presence of the dull coat will cause the pin wash to “bloom” instead of flow. Unless of course you want that effect (good for things like fuel stains or rust stains).