Hey all-
Just wondering what you all use when a kit requires weight in the front nose. I was thinking about using sinkers but they don’t seem to be up to the task.
cheers
dave
i used a 20gram fishing wieght in the 1/48 rockwell , i knew the fishing stuff would come in handy
I use airgun pellets, flattened with a hammer to make them as small as possible.
On the occasion I tries a solid lump of lead, I foud a piece that exactly fitted under the cockpit floorof the Skyvan I was building…
The nosegear crumpled under the weight!
I have used buckshot held in place with epoxy, it’s available in several different sizes so you can match what you need. I’ve also used split shot sinkers held in place the same way. Actually just about anything can be used as weight. Nuts, bolts, washers, anything with weight to it and will fit. Just don’t overload or you could collapse the landing gear (undercarriage if your in the UK)
I’ve always used blu-tack. It can be moulded to any shape and fits anywhere. Cheap too.
If you use rattle cans to paint, don’t throw them away when they’re empty, just let all the extra gas out (if any) and cut the can open. The agitator ball is most likely a ball bearing or something similar, and usually they fit well into 1/48 nose cones. Note: please be careful when cutting the can, it make a very sharp edge.
Mapguy,
I am using sinkers to weight my current project right now and they work fine.Those lead weights come in all shapes and sizes too, (eg: bullet, split shot, egg, etc) so finding a nook or cranny to shove them into is easier. I use a small hammer to gently reshape or flatten them when necessary to make them fit. I know this is one monogram p-38 that won’t rely on that molded on stake to stand up![swg]
What aircraft are you building that needs the ballast[?]
I’ve always found blowing my nose usually took care of the xtra weight…[:o)][:o)]
I’ve used fishing weights, ball bearings, sheet lead, BB’s in an epoxy matrix; whatever works for the particular build.
I have had success with forming a thick piece of aluminum foil by putting it in the nose section and shaping into a mold. Then place the mold on an electric burner and fill with lead sinkers. Fortunately, the melting point of lead is much lower than that of aluminum. In a few moments you have a lead weight that fits exactly into the place you want it.
Obviously, this is a technique which require caution. Molten lead hurts when it drips onto unexposed skin.
i used split shot sinkers on the 38 im working now. have used sinkers before and they work fine. but like was said dont put too much in.
joe
I also use ball bearings and fishing weights…Superglue to hold in place. On desperation once I glued gravel and so far there is no problem whatsoever…
Thanks all for the tips. You have given me some options to think about.
That wouldn’t happen to be the Airfix kit would it?
Oh… the irony…[:D]
I recently found the answer to this age-old prayer, which is getting toughter because the government no longer smiles on products like sinkers made of lead. However, look in the Pinewood Derby section of you LHS or art supply or craft store. Speed Accessories makes a line of differently shaped and weighted lead pieces in their Pine Car line of products. The lead comes in sectioned planks like a Hershey bar, and you can just cut or break off enough pieces to suit the model. They have flat and curved versions. And since it’s lead, it can be cut or micro-sawed to shape with no problem. Check it out.