Hi all, I’m working on a 1/35 scale dio set in Normandy. I have Tamiya’s Flak 88 36/37 kit and Dragon’s 101st AB set. I need help on how to reproduce the Hedgehrows and what height they would be, and how thick. Thanks for the help.[:)]
David
Hope this helps. Here is the photo and the link where i got it from. Also try google it as well.
http://www.skylighters.org/photos/pow08202001.html
Thanks for the help M1 Garand, I never realized the Hedgehrows were that large.
David
Good luck with your build and glad that I was able to help(?). Those Hedgerows were large indeed and all over the place.I think you can use celluclay or plaster to build up the mount, then add dirt and vegetation. It should not be that difficult.
One more question, did the Germans rely on the concelment of the gun or did they have it dug in so that only the barrel was above ground, like in N. Africa. Also, Did they use them in the Hedgehrows or just in open fields and on roads. Thanks fro the help so far.
David
Basically, Germans used hedgerows as a method of slowing down allies and concealing their positions. At the beginning of the invasion of France, many allied forces lost their tanks and armor because they were blocked off by the hedgerows, so tanks had no choice but to climb over them. When that happened, under-belly of the tank (usually the thinnest part of the armor) was exposed to the enemy troops, tank crews can’t see what’s blow them and germans were able to shoot their anti tank guns or weapons directly to the belly of tanks.
This is from a website describing hedgerow battles.
"This feature of the terrain caused the Allies great problems during the fight for Normandy in World War II. Allied units could not see beyond the next hedgerow. The Germans defended each embankment. The hedgerows made Normandy a natural fortress. During battles, tanks could not climb the embankments of the hedgerows without exposing their undersides to anti-tank fire. Tanks moving down the narrow, tree-covered lanes would get blasted by German tanks, assault guns, or anti-tank guns. Disabled tanks would block the lane for following tanks
A small German unit with a few machine guns supported by anti-tank weapons could prevent an entire battalion from advancing. In July 1944, tankers began welding iron beams to the front of Sherman tanks (like a set of teeth) to overcome the hedgerow problem. The tank could then drive directly at the hedgerow and plow through the mass of earth and vegetation without exposing itself. This was known as a “Rhino” conversion or Rhino tank."
As for gun placements, I am not really sure whether germans dug up the section of hedgerow to place their guns or not. Keep in mind that Hedgerow was rows of dirt/vegetation mounds and in between were open farming fields and narrow roads.
If you get a copy of How to build Dioramas by Shepard Paine, there is a photo of his M4 hedgerow diorama. It gives a good perspective of the size of the hedgerow in relation to the tank and figures.
I’ve been modeling for over 30 years and this is still my diorama bible when I need good advice on back to basic techniques.
The 88mm Flak 36 was not as common in Normandy as most GIs seemed to think. The smaller and more versatile 75mm PAK 40 destroyed far more Allied tanks in Normandy.- paraphrased from Osprey’s; Operation Cobra 1944, page 20.
A 88mm Flak 36 is a rather ponderous weapon. It takes a fair amount of time to move, unlimber, set-up and prepare for firing. It is best suited in areas where it’s long range can best be utilized. It should be situated such a manner to maximize it’s field of fire. Positioning the weapon in a hedge row limits the guns ability by restricting it’s field of fire to a narrow window through the hedge row, not the most advantageous use of this weapon, unless it was firing down a road or out into a large, open field. It would also need to be positioned such that it could be re-limbered and moved rather quickly, lest it be out flanked in the narrow confines of the bocage.
A notable use of the 88mm Flak in the antitank role occurred on July 18th near the town of Cagny, on the opening day of Operation Goodwood. Oberst Hans von Luck commandeered four 88s from a Luftwaffe AA battery and ordered the captain in command to move the guns to a nearby orchard and engage British tanks. The young officer refused, saying this was not his job. Von Luck drew his pistol, pointed it at the captain and said, “Either you are a dead man or you can earn yourself a medal”. The guns were moved and engaged the Shermans of 2nd Fife and Forfar Yeomanry with devastating effect. The two-page color artwork of this engagement on pages 78-79 of Osprey’s Caen 1944, depicts these guns as firing while still limbered to their carriages, painted in overall Panzer Grey, be that as it may be…or not.
I agree with Kykeon, you might be better suited for an 88 dioin a more open enviroment.
OK, so maybe not in a AT role but how about it in a artillery position like in Band of Brothers.
David
If you are going to use artillery scenery, then you may want to consider using 105mm howitzers. That’s what was used on Band of Brothers.
Thanks for the clear up, but since I don’t want to buy any more kits right now, did they use the 88 in a artillery position in Normandy, or I could do one on D-day with the paras sneaking up one one firing at the C-47s overhead.
David
That sounds like a good idea. You can position that 88mm as AA gun, aiming upward, and have paratroopers sneaking up on unexpecting Germans.
But, the Germans surely wouldn’t have left there precious 88 undefended. I have a German MG42 kit which might be a nice addition. Also, how would I make a trench or sandbags on the dio base.
David
You have to build the base first, then ground high enough so that you can simulate dug out trenches. You can either use stryfoam, then cut out the area where you want to be trench. OR, you can use things like Celluclay or plaster. Problem with plaster is it may get too heavy, so either you need to have a very good material for the base or use the combination of stryfoam and plaster/celluclay to build your grounwork. I don’t know how big of diorama you are planning to do, but if this is your first one, why not trying to keep it simple and small? You don’t have to show the entire area, but just a small section.
The base of foam is 1ft. by 8in. But I’m thinking about cutting that in half. I was planning to have a group of AB sneaking up on an 88 using the cover of a Hedgehrow and then having a MG42 pointed away from the AB. Maybe I’d have a tree or something in the backround. I think that leaving the trench out would be a good idea but then if the MG42 was up on the ground they would probably have sandbagged it. Do you know of a easy way to make sandbags?
David
Sandbag issues came up quite few times already. Here is the link for previous posts.
/forums/60406/ShowPost.aspx
Check it out.
Thanks for the link. I think that I can now start my dio. You have been a really big help. I’m off to the bookstore today to get some more reference material.
David
WWII Modeler,
No worries my friend. Go out and dig out some more info and start building the diorama. I’m sure your project will come out nicely. Also, search option on this forum is excellent. You can probably find answers to everything and anything by utilizing it too. Enjoy your easter weekend and happy building!
Final question, is there a cheap(and easy) way to make a tree in 1/35. It would be in Normandy.
Thanks, David