What are the different methods you guys use to show non-penetrating hits from anti-tank guns or weak tanks. Doing a Tiger and the ref pic I have shows it loaded with medium sized hits. Tediam suggested a dental burr for the dremel.
That’s what came to my mind.
This will be an interesting post to watch. I’ve never tried any “battle scars”. Thought about it alot, but never tried. Maybe a soldering iron would work.
Jason
This is what penetrating looks like from a 57mm recoiless rifle. The pattern might help though.
Ken
“Hehehhhh, FIRE, fire, FIRE, FIRE…Hey, easy there Beavis.” I like to heat up a dull pointy object thats about the size I need. The dremel also works good, but for me , its harder to control. Please remember heating things up until they are red hot and then poking them into stuff is very dangerous!!! And you might want to try it on some stare parts first, just to get the hang of it. I find the melted and curled waves of the plastic look like the real thing. Well at least to me they do.
Good Luck, and be careful…
Yeah but thats a modern shape charge. The WWII hits were from solid shot and left no blasty mark, just a protruding lip on the edge of the dents/holes.
There was a similar thread not too long ago, although there was relatively little discussion of techniques for replicating dings…
Fade to Black…
I think a Dremel is the way to go.A dental bur or steel grinder works well.Start at a low speed and slowly increase.The heat thing is tricky and you usually have to clean it up with a knife to get rid of that “melted” look.[2c]
i love making battlescars and hits and dents and nicks and stuff… I use anything from a heated point of tweezers to a cigarette… yep, a cigarette. make a sharp point at the end of the burning end and i think it works well… that’s how i made the hit on the marder…
Make a shell shape out of metal heat it and push it in to the area you want damage remeber the shape has to be about the scale you are working with I have found this gives you the melted metal look around the hole.
Dave
Thanks guys. I’ll try not to catch fire!!
I think we should be nervous after you almost killed yourself openning a jar of paint!![:D][}:)]
The dremel with dental bits has always worked well for me:
I also used it to texture the rolled armor plate. It may seem a bit heavy, but by the time I get the paint, future and weather it should be close to scale. The hits are to represent small arms fire, a bigger hit would just require a bigger bit.
HEy, thanks Pete. I am an accident waiting to happen
Ausf, those look great. Guess I will just visit the dentist to see if he has extra. Did you just hold it at different angles for the rolled plate look? I understand about the paint covering a lot. I did something similiar to my Tiger and a lot dissappeared.
i was going to post the same link as BlackWolf3945 Take 2, but he beat me to it.[;)]
a soldering iron works REALLY GOOD! it ends up looking identical to this:
carful you don’t push too hard or you might penitrate.
i just realized, doesn’t it look like the guy on the left is telling the guy on the right this?[:p]
It does seem like they are saying that- “Do not push too hard with the People’s Great Soldering Iron, Comrade.”
As per the above, the only method I’ve ever tried is by heating, and I find that the heated soldering iron works the best. I have an old one that I use strictly for melting and texturing plastic.
I hate to ask, but what is a dental Burr and dental bits? I really like those results ausf.
I like them too. Did you get your off the dentist, ebay or what. Lowe’s selection was borderline non-existant.
Hell use an airgun :::[:D]