Newbie with tracks: Free online intro anywhere?

Modeling Subjects Armor
1

Hi folks.

I just made ‘the big leap’ and purchased an AFV kit (Academy M113A3) with single-link tracks.

Now the question is what to do with it. Judging from all the stunning armor models displayed here, I have some learning to do. The problem is: Where can I find learning materal?

Any pointers to on-line material, preferably accessible for free, is highly appreciated.

Doc

2

Ahhh, I see you need help with indy-links. No worries, here’s two tutorials:

http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=1737 (this one I personally recommend, plus it’s by doog![tup])

http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=84

Hope this helps.[:)]

3

Google Image is your friend, Doc…[;)]

http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=M113A3&btnG=Search+Images&gbv=2&aq=f&oq=

4

It certainly helped!

A couple of questions:

  1. Are there any glues that are particularly (un)suitable? The glues available to me:
  • Tamiya extra thin cement
  • Tamiya (regular) cement
  • Humbrol cement (old-style tubes, maybe as liquid cement)
  • Vollmer Supranol
  • Revell contact glue1. I noted that the doog left drive wheels and idlers in with the tracks during painting, while Bob got the tracks out with no wheels attached. At first glance, separating wheels and tracks seems a bit less daunting what painting is concerned. What about repeating the doog’s “idler trick” (leaving the wheel-halfs unglued) with the drive wheels and idlers? Pros? Cons?

Thanks again, guys! Really helpful!

Doc

5

I do my tracks differently than most, but it never fails for me. You need Tamiya Extra Thin Cement and silly putty/ fun tack

when you are ready (before the fenders are on), tack all the wheels, sprockets, etc. in place with silly putty/ fun tack. DO NOT cement, unless you are someone who like to paint the tracks on the model.

Now, instead of making a length the entire run of tracks, i do it in segments. The first segment is about 15-20 links long. Cement the links together flat on your table with the Tamiya Cement. Tamiya Cement is REALLY strong once it is dry, keeping breakage to the minimum. Let the glue sit for up to 5 minutes, and start the tracks off at around the top of sprocket, then mould them downards and under the roadwheels. This gives them a definate place to be and ensures the tracks will be in the right spot. tweak the alignment if neccisary, and wait a few minutes (or an hour) to let the glue hold up.

Next, the top run. Make a segment the entire length of the top run, long enough to finish up what is on the sprocket and go half way around the idler. Then glue them. let them sit for a few moments, and as soon as they start to get stiff (3 minutes or so), they are ready to rock. Place them at the top run, connect them to the first run, and now your ready to add some sag. To do this, i simply take my two index fingers, nail to nail, and lay them along the top of the run. The curvature of your fingers will cause some slight, even sag in between the return rollers. If you want more sag, pull them down a bit, or, press harder with your index fingers. Skip this step if you dont want any sag.

Let that sit for a bit, and finish up rapping links around your idler and under the road wheels. So, you should have tracks under the first and second roadwheel, along the top run, and under the last two roadwheels. Gestimate the length needed to finish up the ground run, and cement it all together. And there we have it: a finished lenght of tracks. This method works for link and lenghters too. Now my question is: did i confuse you? anywhere i was to vaugue, let me know: ide be happy to go into greater detail.

6

I had the same questions, I’m about six months ahead of you.

Nobody knew if anything other than Testors works, and I’m not inclined to try out another glue, I just bought a dedicated bottle of the Testors, I’m waiting for a set to set up right now, in fact.

I glue up the road wheels while my tracks are setting up, but leave the sprockets to spin freeley to aid in threading the tracks.

Other than that, im still experimenting. My first attempt of fitting the unpainted tracks was not a good experience, taking them back off to paint, and handling them while repainting and remounting, let’s just say I used some harsh language.

Good luck, but its’ a steep learning curve, you’ll get it in 1 or 2 tries.

7

I made these in regards to the DML type of “Magic Tracks” and while not specific to this build you are doing - the info included maybe of help? I can’t seem to figure out how the FSM interface works in regards to providing a direct link so for now you will have to copy and paste these URLs. Sorry.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1ipvKCXh-E&feature=channel_page

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URqEonelBsc&feature=channel_page

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Q14oYd8SSs&feature=channel_page

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQf_RO2MOGE&feature=channel_page

8

Brilliant! I used doog’s technique - it’s been a long summer - and while not perfect, the results were good enough that I might agree that the build was not wasted.

Thanks!

DoC