I used to do models a ton as a teen. The 1/96 revell “uss constitution” killed that passion as it was too much in my younger days. 20 years pluss later I’m ready to tackle it again. After a warm up with a smaller HMS victory model which taught me the problems with Enamels Im ready to get working.(Im still rigging the victory now) I’ve done a lot a research and I intend to make a photo-blog of some sort as I create the 1/96 behemoah. The only thing that confuses me is how the model of my youth, though the same ship, looks so differnt from the current. I could have sworn that it was the constitution, same length but much narrower Deck with a single piece deck. Though net logs report the model itself has not changed. Detail level is the same as I remember but the model is much more advance than what I remember. More detail is preffered and the way the current model is cast makes it much easier to work with than the one of memory which was ‘flash’ heaven. Oh well onto the build and questions I have.
First I purchased paints. I chose a more dull and muted color pallent than what was recomended. I couldnt find copper and the use of acrylic ‘brass’ on the hms victory proved to be too white shiney. So I got gold. Other colors are (recomended paint color = purchased paint color) all paints are Model Master Acrylics.
(black = flat black) white = flat gull grey (tan=wood) green=medium green(brown =leather &raw umber… I bought both paints to expand the brown pallet) I also purchased “british crimson” a kind of dul burgandy for the cannons and “skin tone” which I now see is no where listed in the instructions but is on the box.
Now for the simple Questions.
A. Glues. Red tube glue Vs Blue tube glue (testors)
Im trying to advoid vapors but at the same time I want some good strength. I dont want the mast to fall down on me. (yes i will reinforce them inside since there hollow with a wooden dowl rod or some metal) Also How do these glues react with acrylic paint. I know that they do not bond well with Enamel paints and tend to force enamel paints off of or around the glue joint distorting any bond that uses too much glue to begin with. With items such as cannons this could cause a problem since they bond directly to a painted deck.
B.Acrylic paint gloss and washes.
Acrylic paints are much thinner. Though I used flat enamels on the smaller hms victory model anywhere i had to use multiple layers resulted in a glossy sheen. Does this still occur with acrylic paints? Also enamels had one bad problem. Applying one paint over another could sometimes reactivate it and cause blending. Does this occur with acrylics? My concern is with washes. I SERIOUSLY want to bring out the detail in this model. Heck i wouldnt mind not painting it if I could just bring out all the detail only. However I intend to paint this properly.
Washes… Can you use water to dilute acrylic paints? Or is it best to use a comercial acrylic diluting solution by testors. Also if i need to use “dullcoat” (as described above) could this be used as a diulting solution instead? Can you dilute acrylic paints for a dark wash to go into a lighter color painted deck or is it better to paint it with the darker color first then to dry brush the lighter color on top with various thicknesses of paint and colors untill you get proper plank look? One cheap effect I used to do was to paint a large item with one color. Then once dry Ild quickly load a darker color on top of it. Then whipe it off with a paper town. This left most of the model higher points the color of the original paint job but any deep crack or crevace was left with the darker (same color but darker tone. often same color mixed with black) color in the detail crevaces. This was easy with the thick enamels but what about acrylics? Do they dry quicker resulting in the inability to do this trick?
Cabbins… Photos show white side cabbins and a wood tone middle cabbin. The model calls for white. I know there is no record of an accurate paint job but which would you choose. the middle cabbin has lots of nice little detail areas. If I can find some small enough scale doll stuff I just might use that instead for the side cabbins. a table and a chair. something other than plain.
I’m going to try to get some brass or metal eyehooks to replace the original plastic ones. Likewise with the block and tackle stuff. At such a small scale Im not a stickler for detail for a bead on a string. The bodys paint job is important to me but so is the rigging. I’ll be checking out the book store for books on ship rigging. I also intend to create ‘rope winds’ to go onto the bulkwar pins. Found a nice web page doccumenting that. Originally for wooden kits, could easily work for a plastic kit.
Only one major question of paint job. I’ve seen the helm painted the same color as the gun red, but also just plain wood. Which would you guys choose?
Any tips on washes with acrylics for the hull or for the deck planking is extremely welcome. I’m thikning if I can get away with a ‘wood’ color deck and ‘burnt umber’ wash. or perhaps a ‘wood’ wash. Perhaps a dark grey wash for the black bulkheads outside the ship.
One last question. Currently there is a ‘red stripe’ on the uss constitution. Is the really used a lot these days on models or is it just another one of those ‘pick your paint scheme’ thing?
Any tips are extremely welcome.
Big ole Bob.
P.S. How do I post photos here?