I am in the process of building Tamiya’s Bf-109E3. This is the second time I have built it. First time 20 or so years ago. But, I have ran into a little misfortune. I dropped it not more the 4 or 5 inches while I was masking off for the splinter camouflage. I didn’t think it was hurt. But, as I continued with masking I heard something rattling around in the cockpit. I just couldn’t believe it. I finished the splinter, today; and unmasked everything. It turns out that the pilot’s seat has come loose. So, I have considered my options. The canopy is attached with PVA glue. It has cured a minimum of a week or so. I have thought about taking a scapel and trying to slice through it. But, we all know how fragile clear parts are. I’ve taken about as close a photo as I can. So, if anyone has any ideas; it would be greatly appreciated.
PVA glue, aka white glue, is water-soluable. You can use water, applied to the glue with a paintbrush, to dissovle the glue and remove the canopy. You could warm the water to help speed up the process.
If the canopy was attached with PVA a.k.a. ‘white glue’ (or one of its near-relatives), then it should remove quite easily with little risk of damage to the clear parts themselves. It would probably simply ‘pop’ off with minimal pressure applied – though, as you indicate, slicing the glue joint with a scalpel or #11 blade would be neater and give less chance of chipping where paint lies over a (possibly) irregular glue application.
If you’re worried about possibly marring the clear parts with an errant blade, it would be simple enough to lay down strips of masking tape…which would also provide a straightedge ‘guide’ to cut against.
BTW, your paint job looks quite good! [Y]
Cheers
Okay!
Based on your Photos, Warm Vinegar and a scalpel blade should do the trick. Just give the vinegar time to soften the PVA. I use Aleens "Tacky"glue on many clear parts in many applications.I haven’t had to scrap a model for clear parts Boo-Boos or loose parts within. Good Luck!
Thank you for the compliment. The glue is, in fact; Elmer’s. I was actually unaware that it would reliquefy with water. I saw one of the other guys mention vinegar, as well. I think I will wait until tomorrow until my blood pressure has come back down. Then, I think I will mask it and start with warm water. If I have to do some repainting, so be it. Glad I decided to post. You are never too old to learn.
As others wrote, it should come off with water and a little prying. Be prepared to do some clean-up work, however. The old glue will peel off, but it may take some paint with it.
Gary
Yeah. I sort of figured it would. I guess if I have to, I can repaint the canopy. I am going to try to get just the center section to come off. I think that will give me enough room to do what I need to.
I didn’t see it mentioned…but did you paint your model with enamels, or acrylics?
If it’s the latter, I’d test in some not-too-visible area first; water or vinegar could possibly discolor acrylic paint with a long exposure or ‘soak.’
Tamiya acrylics. I’m going to tape off as close as I can to the canopy. I think I am going to do warm water alone, first. If that fails to get things rolling, I’ll do some water and vinegar. I’ll do straight vinegar as an end game. I suspect the vinegar will take most of the paint off. Either way, I am probably looking at some touch up painting.
I think the downside of soaking is bigger than the upside. I usually just slice through with the tip of new #11 blade. I often temporarily glue a canopy on while painting the model to protect the cockpit, and pull it back off when I’m up to that point. Especially if I plan to finish with an open canopy.
I’m with John.
Especially if it’s all straight lines, like on a 109, a single-edge razor blade will take that canopy off quite neatly. PVA ‘holds,’ but it doesn’t really ‘bond’ to any strength, if you follow.
Just my [2cnts]
Good luck, whichever way you go. [:D]
I do follow what you are saying. I just realized I have a medical scapel in my drawer of X-Acto knives. Have some unopened blades, too. Those things are scary sharp. I just keep forgetting that I have them. Think I will start with one of those, tomorrow. Thanks to everyone for the help and support. I’ll post with the results either which way.
Check the label on the bottle [;)]
First of all, let me say many thanks to all for your assistance. I got the canopy off. Actually without any great uproar or whatever. I first put a new blade in the medical scalpel I mentioned. I taped off down the sides of the fuselage in case of slips. I could tell almost instantly that it was going to come off without damage. I had it off after the set up in just a couple of minutes.
I guess maybe I take modeling too seriously. In fact, I almost sure I do. I’ve been modeling long enough that episodes such as this, are very infrequent. But, when one does occur; I let myself get all in a dither. The blood pressure goes up and I just get all bent out of shape. But, I still enjoy it immensely. Anyway.
Here it is sliced off.
Nice!
Glad[:D] it worked out. [Y][B]