Need Help with Model Master Metalizer

Modeling Subjects Aircraft
1

I’m trying to create panel shading. I sprayed the whole model with MM non buffing aluminum first then went back and hit the panels with MM magnesium. I didn’t mask the panels for fear of lift up and they looked too dark anyway. I tried to cover them with a light spray of the aluminum but it just covered it all up with no remaining shade bleeding through. What do you guys do? Mask and spray? I have steel, stainless steel and magnesium as my choices. Also any tips on lightning the control surfaces. I usually just hit that with a faint coating of white MM acrylic but it actually darkened it instead. Thanks in advance

2

Try using Post-It notes or even bits of wet newspaper for a mask. If you use wet paper, be sure to wick away the excess moisture and make sure you don’t have any droplets where you want to spray.

3

I use post it notes to mask panels

4

I use MM Metalizers exclusively for NMF.

I start with Magnesium overall…as it is darker. Even though it is the non-buff type, I still buff it a little.

Then I might pick out a couple panels with Steel. I use a very small/tight spray and kinda “marble/mottle” the panel with it (freehand).

The rest of the panels will get the same treatment with aluminum and/or aluminum plate.

I do prefer the non-buff type, but still do a little buffing. The buffing type tends to spread a bit and cover up the darker color underneath.

After the NMF is applied, I gloss lacquer it, then mask for any other colors. I mask with Tamiya tape, but de-tack it first, by sticking to my forehead a time or two.

Here’s one from a while back…

5

I have been using Testprs Metalizer paint for a long time. I use rattle cans so I am limited to Aluminum Plate and Stainless Steel. They are both buffable.

Just a few hints:

  1. Do not paint the model with primer prior to appling the Metalizer paint. Metalizer will be smoother and more shiney without a primer.

  2. I use a paper blending stick to buff the Metalizer. It produces a very smooth finish. Blending sticks can be found next to the pastels in craft stores.

  3. When the Metalizer paint is buffed with a blending stick it will not come off on your fingers.

  4. I use post-it notes to mask off airplane panels.

  5. I mostly use Aluminum Plate, but also use Stainless Steel on a few panels (see below)

  6. I lightly brush the Metalizer with 0000 steel wool to simulate the grain that is noticeable in aluminum sheets. (see below)

  7. I use Tamyia Smoke to weather the model, but be careful with it. You need to use it almost like drybrushing.

6

Johnny reminds of a method I used to use, when I first started using rattlecan metalizer.

I would mask off a couple panels and spray them with a primer…peel off the masking then when the primer was dry to the touch, I’d hit the whole model with whatever metalizer I had. The panels that had the primer on them would have a different tone to them. It was due to the texture of the flat primer vs. smooth plastic.

7

Beautiful work guys and thanks for all the tips. After your imput I was able to do this

I’ve got a long way to go yet on this model. I’m sure some of you recognize this beast. But thanks to your help even Mrs. Mollari was a tad bit impressed…that usually NEVER happens Thanks again guys.

8

That’s looking really good!

9

Thanks Johnny

Blast I just noticed that I didn’t extend the black on the engines far enough back. Oh well that ship has long since sailed