I had a little setback this morning. I discovered that I only have one of the round mushroom anchors! I’m not certain whether it was missing from the ‘trees’ or if my litlle helper, Monster, might have gotten a hold of it. My wife said she will make me a new one from Sculpey this weekend. Phew!!!
She does miniatures and creates dolls based on ‘creepy’ literature. Here is one of her creations based on the movie, Hocus Pocus.
Robert,
Get your Wife signed up here.
There’s an entire forum section for Figures and Misc.
And speaking of “Fright”, I think she can steal your Thunder.
Jim.
Jim - I had no idea about this section for figures and misc. I’ll let her know about this one. Many thanks for the tip!!! Speaking about stealing my thunder, here’s a picture of us with our little ‘baby’ when we go out on special occasions. BELATRX our 1966 Oldsmobile 98 Hearse.
Billy Butcherson!
Creative!
Can I commission an “Allison” figure?
GMorrison - he was my favorite character in this movie. I loved his ratty coat! LOL
I updated my Nantucket photo gallery-- I put the photos in a more logical order, plus I added titles and captions to all the photos to better document the build.
https://billmichaels.smugmug.com/Bills-Stuff/Modelling/n-fK4qbP/ProjectsBuilds/RC-Boats/Nantucket
-Bill
BILL - What a wonderful job you did on your Nantucket, plus the fact that she is RC and looks amazing in the water! Your posts of this are some of the best I’ve looked at on this kit. I also want to thank you for all of your tips and leads into helping me along with my progress. Many thanks kind Sir!!!
Yes Bill, great gallery.
And it is really nice to see a ship (model) in her natural element.
Here are two photos showing thhe main forward cabin. Only today did I notice that I have an open hatch which shows an empty room. Not good. My lights will arrive Tuesday and I would like to show a littl more interest inside when it is illuminated. So here’s my game plan:
Create a small wall just inside the ope hatch which would block looking all the way across the cabin. It would still allow light to shine through. My wife made a suggestion about taking a real photo of the inside of the cabin and shrinking it down to glue onto the fake wall.
I’m thinking about cutting a small opening just indis and to the right of open hatch and then installing a HO size ladder that would give the appearence of it going down to the lower deck.
I also need to tone down the green - too bright. It needs to be a very pale mint color green.
Commonly there would be a heavy canvas curtain that would be either pulled back, or hanging closed. You could play with that idea too.
My pretty simplistic approach in breaking up the openess of the cabin. I created a chart table out of pieces of styrene sheet and square and added a chart that I drew on a post-it. I cut a tiny 45 degree shape from thin styrene as my triangle. I had strip of round styrene that I used as my rub rail, so I cut two pieces and painted one black, the other blue, and glued them to the interior wall for piping. I think this is enough to block some of the light that will emit light through the open hatch, yet still give some interest.
Be sure to really black out the cabin. That includes not only making the walls opaque, but making all of the seams tight and opaque.
GMorrison - Thank you for bringing this to my attention! I’ll sit down tomorrow and paint the interior walls flat black and then re-paint them a pale green and white. I ran beads of glue along all of the interior seams (both CA and white glue). I’ll do a test run in the evening so I can check for any leaking light.
I am planning to place the led in the wheel house section of the compartment and the two lower portholes on the front will be blacked out from the interior. I am planning on gluing a red transparency for the wheel house portholes and I also have placed a thin wall (made from styrene) with a little opening that should allow some light to filter into the ‘chart’ room cabin. Hopefully, only a small portion of light will shine out through the open hatch.
I also have two Pico size lights (red & green) to use as my port and starboard lights that will attach to the wheelhouse. That’s my game plan anyway! LOL [^o)]
Here are two photos after masking off and spraying the anti-fouling red onto the lower portion of hull. I went ahead and drilled two very small holes into the hull, just about midway, for the intake/discharge openings.
After a suggestion was made to ‘black out’ all superstructures for any light leaks, I painted all of the interiors with a coat of silver paint. Once dried, I went over everything with a flat black paint. Once these have dried, I will repaint the interiors with white and pale green. Again, but better safe than sorry [;)]
My LED lighting arrived. From left to right: (2) wired connectors, (1) AA battery pack with female connector, (1) package of shrink tube, (2) Pico size warm white led’s, (1) 1.8mm Red led, (1) 1.8mm green led, (2) 3mm flashing cool white led’s.
Masked off upper and lower portions of hull and painted my boot stripe flat black. I used Tamiya tape for curves for the edging and blue painters tape for the large ares. It came out pretty clean.
Yesterday, I was able to mask off the lower part of hull and sprayed the upper section with a gloss red. This morning I was able to spray the hull with Dullcoat to flatten everything out.
I set the hull aside to dry and went and taped off all around the ‘railings’ on the superstructures and painted the rails a brass color. Once dried, I will need to paint the fire hose which is attached to the one cabin. I need to look at real photos to see if the hatch doors were painted white or gray or ?
I also decided to drill out the searchlights that will go atop of the wheelhouse. The back side of the two smaller lights had a mold indentation, so I used a dab of Elmers to seal up the holes. I eventually will paint the insides of lights with silver(?) and use some of my wife’s clear decoupage and place a drop or two to create a lense. One could almost fit a Pico sized LED into the main search light but I don’t think I’ll go there.
You may have gotten ahead of yourself with dullcoating the hull so soon. Decals like a glossy surface- it prevents “silvering”. I would have left the hull glossy so I could apply the big “ NANTUCKET“ decals first…
It is an easy recovery, though- you can always apply a gloss coat, then decal, then dull coat again…
RCBoater - OOPS!!! I had no idea about decals and what is best for adhesion. Rather than repaint, I’ll go with your method. Thank you for letting me know about this issue. A big help. Thanks again!!!
Oh My Gosh ;
I love It ! More power to ya ! Now , back to models . Get yer wife Into figures .I think she could help and learn lots . You are doing great on the ship . T.B. P.S. It’s hard to keep a Tanker out of trouble when loaded .
We’ll try to steer clear . Many have been run over in their history . We don’t want yours to be one . My H.O. full scale Tanker is 6.5 feet long .
For the search-lights I do this , a disc of Foil Chrome at the back , and then I paint the sides with some decanted Molotow Chrome Pen paint ! I use 1/24 and 1/25 and 1/32 Lucas headlight lenses for them ! I use Aleen’s craft Glue to mount the lenses .
TankerBuilder - I want to thank you for all of the pointers and tips you’ve offered to me along the way and I hope to get this one finished before the end of the year. So far, things have been going smoothly with this kit. When finished, I’ll make sure my beacons are bright enough so you don’t slice me in half as your tanker ship glides by! Cheers and a good weekend!