I finished up on my first wooden boat and I thought I would take a break by turning my attention to this little ship with a wonderful history. I purchased this kit from Hobbylinc and it arrived well packaged and intact. I read a review that said this was an old mold and expect some flash and injection marks. After looking over the parts, I could see that it does have some issues that will require putty and sanding.
First off, I sprayed everything with primer gray. I then set about work by using CA glue to connect the two hull halves together. Two areas that did not align up on my model was the opening on the bow for the anchor and the opening for the propeller on the bottom aft end. I will try to do some putty work, drilling and sanding to help fix my problem. I ran a good bead of Testors model cement from a tube all along the interior seams of the hull. I am planning to install wiring for lights and I do not want the seam to open when I drill.
As for color scheme, I’m told that this kit represents this vessel just before she was refitted from steam to diesel power in April of 1960. Since I do not own an airbrush, I will use ModelMasters Guard Red on hull, Testors Flat Black for waterline strip and Red Oxide for anti-fouling red. Testors Gray for all deck(s), Flat white for all bulkheads, and Badger Union Pacific Armor yellow for my ‘spar’ on masts, funnel, ventilators, etc.
Can’t wait to see more. I enjoy seeing what people can do with some of these older models, that were around when I grew up. Admittantly they may seem primitive compared to alot of more recent kits built with newer technology, and sometimes time and age have taken there toll on the moldings, etc. But with care they can be a nice looking build [:)].
You might want to reconsider the Badger Union Pacific Armor Yellow. The Badger Marine Colors #16-405 Deck Tan is a closer match to Spar (or Buff); an alternate is #16-408 Navy Buff.
PFJN @ Pat - for some unknown reason, I’ve found an interest in the history of these ships. I posted that I am planning on installing lights for the beacons and another person, who goes by the name RCBoater, suggested to me an LED white light that has a 360 degree by www.superbrightLEDs.com. He also gave me the tip on a flasher unit that simulates a lighthouse beacon by http://www.bakatronics.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=575.
There are quite a few discrepancies with this model and I will try to change a few of them if I can. One is the actual ship has two rub rails in which the black waterline goes between. I noticed the model has a cutout in the starboard bow to house the spare mushroom anchor. On the real ship. it has the same placement as the main bow anchor and sits right next to it instead of higher up placement on the model kit.
I hope to give this my best shot with some of the changes that I will be making and I am looking forward to a fun build. Thanks for taking a look [;)]
Went online and ordered my White Ensign USCG Spar paint from Sprue Brothers (thanks to GMorrison for this tip); ordered two 5mm 360 degree LED’s from Super Bright Leds; and ordered my flasher light controller, which simulates a lighthouse beacon, from Bakatronics (both the LED light and controller were leads from RCBoater).
Working on cutting and sanding off any flash from the structure parts to be assembled. Thanks for all of the help and a good day’s work. [:)]
I sat down and was able to work on adding the missing rub rail to the ship’s hull. I used two Evergreen round styrene strips and taped them down on the ends to hold in place. I used a sanding block to flatten down one side of each strip and a sanding file to round off the ends. They were then cut to the right length. I used a ruler to mark off distance from top rail and ran a tape line along the markings for placement of strip. Strip was attached to hull using CA glue. Sanded off any excess glue and then hit with gray primer.
GMorrison - LOL Practice leads to more questions and answers… and progressively better builds! Thanks to so many people like yourself who are willing to share their experience and knowledge to help others down the river instead of up the river! Cheers and a good weekend!
Here’s a link to my smugmug gallery showing the work I did to convert the model to radio control. The model features working navigation lights as well as the flashing beacon- I can switch from one to the other via RC. Note that as a working model, often sailed at night, I left off some of the more fragile details… https://billmichaels.smugmug.com/Bills-Stuff/Modelling/n-fK4qbP/ProjectsBuilds/RC-Boats/Nantucket
In between having a new roof put on my house, I was able to assemble the superstructures to be placed on the decking. I filed and sanded away a bit of flash on all of the pieces, especially cleaning out many of the portholes, and dry fitted pieces for placement. I used liquid cement to bond all of the walls together and finished with some white glue to help fill in any seams that showed gaps. I then sanded smooth and sprayed with white primer. Everything seems to fit properly on the deck (not glued down - they need to be detailed).
I’m going to look at photos to see what color the portholes were. Then I will try to figure out the best way to color them. I was thinking about using permanent marker instead of paint. Has anyone tried this method for portholes?
I also removed any flash from the ship’s three small boats and sprayed with white primer. I believe the colors used for this time period were white hull, with black railing. The original colors were red and black.
Using permanent markers is risky. Many clear coats, including Future, can make them bleed. I assume you will be weathering the ship, and usually that works best putting washes on over a clear barrier coat.
Also most markers are really dark blue or purple. I like paint pens. Most art stores sell them, they come in silver, white and black. Three or four tip sizes. Extremely useful things for jobs like your portholes. 1/700 aircraft canopies.
GMorrison - thanks for your advice on permanent markers and I’ll stay away from using them. You’re right in the fact they they do have a bluish tint to them. I looked at a few pictures that were taken from the interior of the wheelhouse. The actual porthole windows were receased into the walls and from the exterior, they appear as only round openings.
I do plan on spraying everything with a dull coat after all is attached to the ship. I am thinking of adding some weathering sparingly with this build. I need to start doing some homework with electrical wiring and on running multiple lights for the ship. My goal is to create the effect that some lights are on behind some of the portholes. On this kit, I will be building a stand that will hide the battery connection and possibly incoprorate an on/off switch. Tea… tah’s it,110,220, whatever it takes! LOL poof~
Bob - thanks for your feedback on the pens. Your work that you are doing on your Connie is really inspiring and your talents shine on this one. I’m envious of your knowledge on wiring and electronics!!!
Went to HobbyLobby ( my nearest hobby supply shop) and I picked up a bottle of Testors enamel gray paint that I needed but struck out on a can of DullCoat and a black Painter pen. I’ll light some incense and send my prayer to the universe that they arrive in next week’s shipment. [:'(] I did finish my final top deck so all of my superstructures are together. I need to do the portholes and any trim paint before I glue them in place.
Once again, thanks to Bill and Bob for suggesting the paint pens!
So I’m a happy camper - here’s a pic of my USCG Spar paint by White Ensign!
I went back to the hull and set about filling in the half-circle cutout on the starboard bow that is suppose to house the spare mushroom anchor. Here’s a picture of ship’s bow compared to kit’s bow:
I held a post-it up against the inside of my hull and traced the shape of the opening with a pencil. I then transferred it onto a styrene sheet and cut out with x-acto knife. I sanded edges until it fit into the opening and used liquid cement to bond it to the hull, both on the inside and out. I then used some gray putty to fill in the seams and waited overnight for it to dry before sanding. I gave it a shot of gray primer to check for fit. Needs just a little more touch up before it’s finished, but it now looks accurate to the real deal!
I had some time to work on the three small boats that will go on the deck. I have decided to go with white hulls, black keels and rails and wood colored seats. I notice thhe seats are too glossy so I will spray them with DullCoat and add a rope coil to the interiors.
