Timothy,
I did not mean anything negative towards you or your ideas. I directed my comments to you only because I was responding to your comments. Please accept my apologies for any misunderstanding.
Bill Morrison
Roger that Bill, no problem then. In this case I can only guess as to what happened here. I have some personal experience with other companies. For the record, I think the Nagato is a really nice kit. But that one flaw is a killer. Mistakes like that used to be common in plastic. There are a lot of kits out there that still have the dreaded Aztec stair where there should have been inclined stairs. Or raised deck markings on a flight deck that are better represented by decals. To build this one, advanced modelers will have to overcome a difficult problem. I hope someone takes the time to document their fixes so all can learn from them. I don’t think it’s wrong to point out the flaws in a kit, but if you do, try to offer a solution. I am very curious how this one will work. So keep us informed on how it works out.
Oh and CAD is Computer Aided Drafting or Design. Originally it was Drafting as early CAD was little more than a drawing tool. Later it evolved into Design as the software became more powerful and 3D came into it’s own. CADD is Computer Aided Drafting AND Design.
Timothy,
I firmly agree that we should offer solutions to our criticisms, hence this thread. In another and earlier thread concerning these CAD lines, I had mentioned that I was painstakingly filling each CAD line with thin lines of Squadron putty, rolled and applied inside each line. Gsharris began this thread with another solution available at Home Depot, something called Porc-a-Fix. I have since shifted my efforts to that. Still another contributor, qmeister, recommended correction fluid.
So far, I am getting these lines filled and sanded smooth. But, it is very difficult for my arthritic hands! I’d rather not have to do this. Yet, given the exceptional detail of the rest of the kit, I feel that it is worth the effort.
Bill Morrison
I have been reading all of these ideas very carefully to determine which fix will be easiest, cheapest, and most effective. The ‘whiteout’ solution is pretty intriguing! If it works, it could be sold to modellers at a hugely inflated price and call it ‘CADbegone,’ or somesuch! In the meantime, I have ‘Nagato’ on the back shelf waiting for me to finish off a number of other projects first (like ‘Atago’ and ‘Kongo!’)…
Nagato is my current diversion from the Soleil Royal. Basically, I work for several days on the sailing ship, then fill and sand a few CAD lines.
Bill Morrison
Gentlemen,
My intent in starting this thread was to present the fix to the Nagato CAD line problem and see how others have solved this situation. I did not intend to continue the controversy of why the lines are there.
To Mr. Morrison, if your hands are in pain from rolling putty filler try brushing on the Porc-a-fix and pulling the lines away from the hull. Porc-a-fix is intended to be sanded and responds very well to wet sanding. Just filling in the lines is time consuming and leaves you with sanding two different materials that respond differently. I used a full bottle on my Nagato and was able to sand out the CAD lines without touching the hull.
One person did not have good results with Porc-a-fix and he may have had a bottle from a bad batch or the Porc-a-fix may have been exposed to the air. Even with the cap tightly screwed to the bottle Porc-a-fix will turn into a thick mess when the Naptha vehicle evaporates.
The idea of using correction fluid might work but will take time to fill each line. Porc-a-fix is intended to be brushed on (thus the brush in the bottle cap) and fill in scratches and lines on porcelin products just like the lines on the Nagato and it worked for me.
I am building the HMCS Snowberry and using Porc-a-fix to fill the gaps between the four hull sections of the ship and Porc-a-fix works better than putty.
Any more ideas that have been used with satisfactory results?
Scott Harris
gsharris,
I have already given up on filling the CAD lines with putty and have shifted to Porc-a-Fix. It works much better!
Bill Morrison
Sounds like a good product. I’m thinkin’ it’s “Porse-a-fix”, not “Pork-a-fix”, the latter sounds like a dry rub! I’ll try it too.
To Mr. Morrison,
I would be interested in how you applied Porc-a-fix, any problems you had with the glaze, how you resolved the problems, your satisfaction with the end result and your overall satisfaction with Porc-a-fix.
To bondoman,
The product is called Porc-a-fix with the Porc standing for porcelain and is a “porcelain touch-up glaze to repair chips, cracks and scratches in porcelain fixtures, appliances and tile.” It also works on plastic.
Scott Harris
Will get some on my next trip to Home Depot. My favorite hobby shop does not carry it (Michaels Craft store). Just a word of warning…stuff is nasty! use your repirator and ventilate properly. From the MSDS sheet (cant help it, been a bench scientist for decades):
"PRODUCT CLASS: Vinyl Toluene Alkyd " — Toluene is the key one here, a nasty organic volatile
very flammable, careful in the wintertime if you live in a dry area and do your work indoors:
“Vapors may be ignited by static electricity or sparks.”
PRIMARY ROUTE(S) OF ENTRY: DERMAL, INHALATION
– means we modellers are at the place of contact with the substance toxic effects
VAPOR DENSITY: HEAVIER THAN AIR
– this one always raised a red flag to me, if you have toddlers in the house.
RESPIRATORY PROTECTION - If TLV or PEL of product or any component is exceeded; a NIOSH MSHA approved air supplied;respirator is advised.
VENTILATION - Ventilation of sufficient volume and pattern should be provided to keep air contaminant concentrations below values in Section II.
PROTECTIVE GLOVES - Required, rubber or neoprene to prevent skin contact.
EYE PROTECTION - Use safety eyewear including splash guards or side shields.
I am still getting it of course, but use it wisely! 
JMart thanks for the warning.
Scott Harris
…Then i reckon it won’t help muh broken pigs much neither!
GSharris,
I simply mask of the particular line that I am working with, fill the line with Porc-a-Fix using a microbrush (I am trying to limit exposure to the rest of the hull), allow each coat to dry before filling the line again (and again, and again, ad infinitum) until the recessed line becomes a raised line. Then, I sand it using fine grit sand paper until flush with the hull. I have noticed some shrinkage between fills, but it is a minor issue.
For those who would rather use putty, I found a better solution to Squadron putty. Try “Mighty Putty” found in the “Sold on TV” section of stores like Wal-Mart. It is actually a putty/epoxy mix that is easy to handle, dries quickly, and sands easily. It is far less messy than other putties and can be rolled safely and finely to fill any defect. It also dries in the shade of gray that Nagato is molded in.
I hope this helps!
Bill Morrison
So far, it sounds like the ‘White-Out’ method appears to be the easiest and cheapest…
I was discussing this problem at my local hobby shop and another customer showed me the easiest method yet . . . Testor’s Contour Putty! I have never really noticed this product before, always using Squadron Green and White putties. For those as unfamiliar with this product as I was, it comes in the same type of tube as plastic cement with the same dispenser. Just draw a line inside the CAD line with the putty, wipe away any excess, gently sand as necessary, and it is filled. In fact, he had just bought the Mutsu while we were talking, so he gave us a quick demonstration. It works!
Bill Morrison
great tip Bill… was also thinking about cutting the putty with some acetone-containing nail polish, that was you can wipe the excess with a cotton swap Qtip,leaving very little sanding at the end.
Great idea, JMart!
Bill Morrison
Wouldn’t the acetone melt the plastic?
if left on then yes.
I have used acetone-based nail polish remover for decades as a paint remover and as a super-glue debonder. I have never had a problem with melting plastic. However, I do remove it fairly quickly.
Bill Morrison