Looks great! I agree with the lads that a little weathering will finish it off nicely. There’s no need to go over the top. If you think its not quite enough, you’ve done the exact amount, especially for a first ‘wash & dry’… Keep up the excellent work!
Fantastic man!!! You’re making me wanna build more and more armour models!! Looks great!! Keep up the good work!!!
Man oh man for your first armor you don’t fool around. You did a serperb job on this beast. Just what I like a truck hauling a tank as it should be!!LOL:-)
Nice Job!!
Welcome to the forum. I like the two bored tankers on the Stug.
Ron.
MANY THANKS[:)]. I was given a PzKw IV from Italieri that I’ve started. I’ll try weathering on it. Again, THANKS! Bob
[2c] Good kit to work on, Bob. For it’s age it offers some good detail; For my money it has the best-detailed single piece tracks on the market. Also those separate fenders (which is something I would like to see more armor manufacturers do… are you listening, Tamiya??) make modeling dents, missing fenders and other battle damage a breeze.
A couple of weathering tips, if I may be so bold: Be sure to give your model at least two light coats of a flat laquer before starting to weather, especially if you plan to use mineral spirits or turpentine for washes. This will seal the paint and your washes will flow smoothly across the surface. I suggest Flo-Quil Figure Flat, which is more expensive than Testor’s Clear Flat but gives a better finish.
Also, while Italeri uses very thin decal films, some manufacturers (Tamiya, again) use much thicker films which weathering will accentuate unless you cut very close to the marking, which is nearly impossible for most of Gemany’s division and tactical markings. I would suggest making the purchase of dry-transfer markings, available from VLS and several other manufacturers. They’re inexpensive and save a lot of headaches. And while they’re impervious to laquer, I have had one or two lift off when assaulted by turpentine washes. I have no explanation as to why. So, after placing the dry-transfers I am sure to shoot a little clear flat over them. Hope this helps. Also, if you’re serious about doing more armor, I would suggest you get Shepard Paine’s “Modeling Tanks and Military Vehicles.” It’s a little dated on some of it’s info but the chapters about basic construction, weathering, and adding detail are timeless and he offers great advice for beginning track-heads.Good luck and have fun!
Another piece of advice: don’t ever paint your threads gunmetal or steel or something like that (looks like gunmetal in your pictures) UNLESS you’re modeling a vehicle still on the assembly line or a stationary monument.
Tank threads rust very quickly. The friction with the pavement may strip the rust off the top detail of the thread exposing the shiny steel underneath but as soon as the vehicle stops even that will rust over virtually overnight.
Paint your threads rust and dry-brush with metallic colors such as gunmetal or burnt iron or steel.
very nice work ! does the stug come with, or was that a different kit ?
it’s making me want to build a stug soon !
thanx for sharing the pix !
frosty[:)]
The stug’s a seperate kit, same unit makings though. Thanx Frosty. Bob
Oh and one thing Bob, I think link mis-typed what he was saying about the wash. You want a clear GLOSS coat to apply your wash to, then seal it after with a clear flat coat. If you put a wash on flat it’ll hold more than you want in some areas and it’s harder to get off or won’t come off.
Look through the techniques forum and you’ll find some threads about washes that are informative.
Eric
looks great ive got the Famo im just hopeing they release the trailer on its own
welcome to the dark side
[quote]
Originally posted by erush
Oh and one thing Bob, I think link mis-typed what he was saying about the wash. You want a clear GLOSS coat to apply your wash to, then seal it after with a clear flat coat. If you put a wash on flat it’ll hold more than you want in some areas and it’s harder to get off or won’t come off.
With all respect, I typed exactly what I meant. My experience with gloss coats has been they tend to make washes bead up while flat coats make washes flow in the seams. I use a Q-Tip or the corner of a paper towel to remove build ups while the wash is still wet. But we all do whatever works for us, right?[8D]