Well, I’ve been dying to try out artist oils (windsor and Newtown) to try the dot and streak effect. However, even the 5ml tubes are fairly expensive so I was hoping to limit my choices. What colors do you find most useful? I am most interested in Russian and British ww2 armor, so things thatcompliment the green would be good. The threee I hear most common are:
Raw Umber (Rust/dirt)
Burnt Sienna (Same as above)
Yellow Ochre (Streaky, fading yellowish tint for Bronze Green British armor)
So does anyone think some colors are more necessary than others? Thanks, Ian.
Congrats on the hundredth, ad yeah they would probably end up getting used for washes as well. I think I’ll get some yellow ochre, good for British “Bronze Green”, Russian “Tractor” green and early war more olive-drabbish russian colors, U.S Olive Drab and even dunkelgeld if I used it lightly. Pretty versatile. And then I’ll probably just get abrunt umber/Sienna for dirt. Maybe the black also. Thanks.
Aha! Van DykE! that’s the name I always used to see Biffa using and wanted to try, thanks. Are most Artist oils the same, roughly? the other’s Im finding that are cheaper are Winton and Gaucher or something. any clues on the quality of them? Thanks.
Also, what do you thin them with for washes? Water, Isopropyl Alcohol, or enamel thinners/acetone?
Be aware, Ian, that “Van DYke Brown” is VERY close to “Raw Umber”…in fact, it’s just between R.U. and Black, so you can tint R.U. with black to achieve it. If you’re financially strapped, get black instead, cuz its an invaluable oil to have for green tanks and pin washes.
…although W and N are expensive, I would invest in a high quality brand if at all possible…a tube should last you a LOOOONG time…I am only on my second tube of raw umber, burnt sienna, white and black and I have been modeling a fairly long time and use oils quite a bit…a little goes a looooong way…Abeiltung 502 is another top brand that may be cheaper, and they are supposedly formulated just for modeling (might try them next if I ever run out again–lol)…
Thanks for pointing that out doog, no use getting the Van dyke if I’ll have black and Umber. I guees I’ll stick with Windsor and Newtons, I found the 5ml tubes pretty cheap on ebay, and just made a LOT of extra cash selling a couple old models. I guess I’ll get the Yellow Ochre, some sort of Black, lamp black I think it was, and a Raw Umber. Should be enough to atleast fool around with them and the mig pigments I’m trying out for the first time.
EDIT- Doog, Glad you liked your new name! Gotta love typos! Long live the “doof”
Ian, if I could be nosy, what did you sell, and how much can you get for these old kits? I’ve got some oldies hat I’ve been thinking of selling, but haven’t convinced myself that it would be worth it… you can PM me if you don’t want to post your reply here…I’d appreciate the feedback!
BTW…lets hope “the doof” doesn’t catch on! [%-)] [(-D]
I sold two built kits, A BTR 152E (Skif w/ Eduard PE) and a ICM T-35.
I was hoping for around $40 or so for enough to get another couple, and was quite shocked when the T-35 went for $80, and the BTR is at $100 with an hour left. Hmmm, profiting off of building models or applying for my first job making minimun wage asking “Paper or Plastic?” at the local grocery store? Tough one. I think I might try building and selling a couple more.
WOW! I thought you sold UNBUILT kits! I never realized that there was such a market for built kits!
Did they go to a guy named “Model Maniac”?!?! [(-D]
I gotta say, that’s some good spare change for two kits, but I don’t know if I could sell any of my “kids”! (well, maybe some of my earliest kits that have been improved upon and bettered by subsequent kits…) Thanks for the food-for-thought, though!
I was suprised as well, some of those kits go for ridiculous amounts. There’s a sherman that doesnt look like it has much AM other than resin Wading Exhaust tube thingies and its at almost $400!
