ive done a precursory search that didn’t really answer my query, so I figured I’d ask the gurus here!
im rounding the corner of painting and weathering the airframe of my Tamiya 1/48th Mosquito, and I’m doing some research on how beat up and war weary these birds got…did being made of mostly wood keep it ‘cleaner’ than its aluminum counterparts? Would a black basing type approach to the refinishing be acceptable?
I would not think being made of wood would keep it any cleaner, it would still stain. Of course, what you would not have is lots of metal chipping. I recently finished a Tamiya Mossie and weathered it as i would any otehr kit. I was doing an aircraft that was pretty new so just some exhaust stains and a light flory wash.
That’s kind of what I was thinking, and while I am by no means a “river counter”, I still want to try and give the paint some interest and depth, but don’t want to overdo it too much. My only thoughts of the difference in paint weathering between the wood and metal sort of stem from my automotive refinish experience, where the different substrates between plastic bumper covers and steel (or aluminum) body panels created different paint appearances and paint mismatch, even if painted together…
Both metal and wood are primered before painting, so there is no color difference between the same substrate, even with different color primer (or clear dope). Thirties and Forties light planes were a mix of metal (cowl areas and such, wood, and fabric. The paint looked the same- it was hard to tell which was which just by looking at the paint. Look at pictures of Stinson Reliant, Pipers of any sort from that era.
You’re just not going to have a lot of panel lines or chipping/bare metal areas. There will be the usual exhaust stains, fluid leaks, etc. Paint will fade and get weathered. But keep in mind the service life length of an aircraft.The Mosquito was constantly being improved and new models introduced. So older ones would be sent from combat units back to training units.
I am going to throw some information into the ring here which not many people know about the Mosquito construction.
The actual finished surface of the aircraft or skin is not wood but a fabric waterproofed and glued onto the wood with taped edges Then doped.
I was able to get close to this when Tony Agars’ Mosquito was at the Yorkshire Air Museum at Elvington before its move to the Lincolnshire Heritage aviation (no idea for the reason for the move).
I am not sure what the fabric is, but I suspect a tight wove canvas and is there to protect the plywood sheets from the weather etc. as the fabric is doped too it also provides rigidity to the structure too. The mossie is very much a light and increadibly strong aircraft.
just think that this wooden structure had not only 2 Merlins hanging off the wings but the bomber variant with bulged doors could carry a 4000lb blockbuster to Berlin and the fighter bomber variant could carry 4 .303 and 4 20mm cannon plus 2 1000lb bombs.
The Luftwaffe fighter pilots had great respect for this aircraft as it actually had a flight performance very similar to the Mk IX Spitfire and with an experienced pilot could outfight the Me 109 and FW 190 Or at least cause them some headaches!
So, when it comes to weathering you should look at fabric staining techniques after a non-weathered paint job of Ocean grey/Dark Green/Medium Sea Grey for which I reccomend Vallejo’s paint set for the RAF.
the exceptions to that weathering would be the engine cowlings which were metal.
There is a Mosquito being rebuilt to return to flight here in the UK. Look up The People’s Mosquito. This will be a good source of information for modellers.
NOTE: Warbirds flown at displays are not being flown as they would have been in combat. They are being flown slowly and gently to show them to the crowd. If a Spitfire or Mosquito were to fly down the flight line at combat speeds of around 400mph and pull away in a very tight climbing turn you would not be able to get a decent photograph unless you have professional grade camera setup.
I know as I used to own my own Mk IX Spitfire before I had a virus which destroyed my heart and so stopped my ability to fly. I used to finish a gentle display and fly pasts with a low level full speed combat fly past with a sharp climbing turn and roll. This showed what the aircraft was capable of and I did pull a significant amount of G in the climbing turn and roll.
The dope should protect the fabric (linen usually) from stains. Usually the last coat of dope was silver dope, which protects linen from sunlight UV. There are newer fabrics (non-plant based), but for period planes it would have been linen. So any stains or surface crud like exhaust stains would look the same whether the structure underneath was metal or fabric (most wood structures were covered with fabric).
Here’s what I used on my Tamiya 1/32 Mosquito. My build is not perfect by any means, but I was very happy with the results and so was FSM Digital Gallery. It is in the Digital Gallery of 2018. Go ahead and take a look.
I used what snapdragonxxx recommended in that it was Vallejo Colors shot freehand with a Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. Then I used the Testors Natural Enamel Stain and AB with a NEO by Iwata. If you want to know more, I’d be happy to answer your questions to the best of my abilities! Good luck and have fun!
Is it me or the photo, but the Ocean Grey upper seems a little light, or did you go with the Medium Sea Grey all over with the dark green disruptive camo?
I must have a go at Tamiya’s 1/32 kits. The Zero, Mk IX spit and Mossie look really nice.
I must admit that Vallejo is my primary source as they don’t go for the scale conversion paint theory as AK and others do so you know that the colours are accurate. Doesn’t stop me dipping into those ranges for colours that aren’t in the Vallejo range, such as the cowling blue black seen on Japanese aircraft which, incidentally, AK don’t seem to have messed with the shade of that one!
Incidentally, how do you get your stuff in the FSM Gallery??
Don’t be fooled by the real colour. They aren’t. AK are still scale correcting.
I bought their RAL 7028 set for german armour and none of the colours matched the chipsets or the original colours made for my armour by and OEM manufacturer in Germany. Also, some of their colours are pure fiction!
Thank you snapdragonxxx! That is very kind of you to comment on my Tamiya Mosquito build. The color was a medium sea gray if my memory serves me right from Vallejo‘s Model Air RAF Paint Set. It is the Testors Natural wash that gives the Vallejo medium sea gray a different hue on camera. In actual look in my home it is a RAF color that looks weathered worn.
As for my 1/32 Mosquito in the Readers Gallery, I simply submitted and wait to see if it is chosen. It’s because of FSM Members like you in that I’ve learned different techniques. I’ve had two F4-U Corsairs (Tamiya 1/32 and a Revell 1/48), Zoukei Mura 1/48 Shinden, Monogram 1/48 “Visible“ B-17G Flying Fortress fully loaded with Eduard PE, Trumpeter 1/32 Harrier, and this Mosquito in the Readers Gallery.
I just sent in my last build of the Trumpeter 1/32 Avenger I built with Ezra my grandson. I really hope it gets chosen. Not many FSM Members have a three year old AB and know how to use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Lol!
Prove your claim they’re pure fiction. Last I’ve heard Real Colors have been getting rave reviews. And who’s to say Vallejo is spot on while others aren’t? There is no real proof between paint companies which is the true color shade.
Sure different paint companies put out an Olive drab or zinc chromate but a shade different. Even RAF Sky is different in shades/tint. None claim to be the most accurate, spot on match to the real thing. Even if one mixes his own paints in attempt to match it close to the real thing.
Scale correcting will never be achieved no matter what they do. Take it as acceptable to the builder, not what’s the correct shade by scale or wrong by scale.
Regardless, it’s up to the builder to choose what paint they chose to use.
Splendid work on the Mossie. I have seen those Create FX washes before but so much now. Last I looked, Hobby Lobby and/or Michael’s had them in their stock.
Thank you sir! I tried my best. You are correct, the create FX washes were picked up at Michael’s. They are very popular with hobbyist as I see their stock run out quickly.
first off, Toshi, that Massie is gorgeous! I can only hope that mine comes out half as beautiful!
As for the "color accuracy " conversation, some of you may be trying to achieve some special level of perfect accuracy, but if a company sells me colors that match in name, and look close…it’s for me! Besides, there are so many different variables, including number of coats of paint (coverage), weathering (color changing through filters and washes), and then light color and quality during photography that can affect this perceived “perfection”.
I appreciate all the feedback from you guys, and I will add photos as I proceed towards finishing this thing. I can only hope I can honor my grandmother in the end!
Right now, the Mossie sits in black primer, waiting for me to have a little time to begin the camo…
Just a note, and yes nice wooden airplane there Toshi.
When freehanding the camo, the area of fuzziness on RAF aircraft is about 1" wide in real life. From any distance away it should look pretty hard edged.