Ok, so at 35 I’m still new to the modeling world and would like a little help on a couple of the things I hear… please bear with me, they are dumb quesitons.
flash on a sprue?
ejector pins?
there are more, but i cannot think of any… let’s just call this Part I
Ejector pins are the small, round, indented circles that are sometimes on the OUTSIDE of hulls and things. More and more companies now make the imprint on the INSIDE , where it can’t be seen. Took them a while to figure it out. I guess it is something you can’t get past in plastic molds or something. Honestly, I haven’t the faintest idea about what I’m talking about.
But I know flash is bad, but I am not advanced enough to identify it or care about it. I know it’s bad though.
Flash is the thin plastic that is left over from the molding process. It is the stuff that looks like it oozed out of the mold, found in corners, and on older kits it can be found around the injector pin marks. I have especially noticed flash on old Revell modlings, particuarly their ship kits come to mind as flash nightmares. LOL ejector marks are where the plastic is pushed out of the mold by metal pins. Poorer quality kits show these marks, they are the round indentions in the plastic where there should be no round marks. I hope this helps
Gygaxx got ejector pin marks. I don’t know what sprue flash is but flash in general happens when the two halfs of the mold don’t fit together perfectly and produce that very thin flat plastic that protrudes from the parts. Can usually be trimmed off easily. It’s even worse when the mold halfs are slighly skewed. [V]
What are some more modeling lingo terms? How about OOB?
Edit: sorry ArmyDogDoc beat me to the answer I wasn’t quick enough
Ejector pin marks as described by Mike are indeed those little round marks on the parts that have a way of showing up where you least want them to. As the name states, they are pins that actually are used to push the plastic out of the mold.
Flash is that thin plastic that shows up between parts or sprue. Yes it is bad and often hard to clean up. It is caused when the two halves of the mold are not completely sealed and plastic gets inbetween them.
PE? That is the tiny usually after market parts made of brass on a flat sheet. Some of the newer kits are starting to include some PE (Photo-Etch) in their kits. The parts are identified with a part number that corresponds with the set of directions, and illustrations that come with the PE. Normally the etched part will have a bend line scribed on one side of the part indicating where to bend, and that should be bent in the direction of the bendline. PE (Photo-Etch) is not for everyone, and does require more then just basic modelling experience as the parts are very small, and fragile. Once they are formed up they are attached to the model using a small dab of super glue. My Question concerns the colors referred to when painting “German” models! ex. Dunkelgelb? Semper Fi, mike
Dunklegrau - gray (early period, before 1943)
Dunkelgelb - yellow color (late period, 1943 on)
Rotbraun - red (often used as a primer)
Olivgruen - green
I know there is more
Next question: Vacuform? and are there any vacuform armor kits?
As I know it “Barney-built” refers to using various parts from different models and putting them together in a way that is different from how the model manufacturer intended them to be used. A better way would be to say that I took “engine” parts from a few different kits (resin and plastic) and put them into an engine bay for a destroyed russian tank a couple of years ago. Only a few of the parts showed through the grills so nobody knew exactly what was in the engine bay. Of course, somebody else may have a different or better explanation than mine. HTH.
I think you may be onto something there, and Kalmback could publish it… hmmm a finescale modelers dictionary and desk reference book of tools and their uses!!!