hi all, I’ve just purchased some white fine milliput to use as a filler. Any advise on using it? Can it be thinned with water or is it better to use it as packaged and clean up with a wet cloth/ finger later. I hate sanding (lol) so I guess I’m looking for the lazy mans way of eliminating seams.
I have never used it as a filler. But when I mix it, I find it easier to do it in a small tub of water. I then take off a small bit and apply it and leave the rest in the water. I use it for adding Zimm to German armour and I find this helps it spread easier. But I don’t leave it in the water to long as then its harder to stick to the surface. I imagine if your using it as a filler, you won’t need to mix a lot each time. When I spread it, I use a latex glove.
I 've heard of several modelers using it as a filler but personally I like using Squadron putty, Bondo spot putty or Perfect Plastic Putty as fillers on small areas. Milliput is mostly used for sculpting and kit bashing figures and filling in large repair areas or gaps.
Bish mentioned he uses it for zimm on German tanks which is yet another use.
Never had much luck with it on models. It’s hard to work with, mixing or kneading the two pieces of material to a uniform consistency is difficult. And once you open the sealed packages, the left over material will get hard in a couple months and you’ll end up throwing out the rest of the expensive stuff.
I think it is intended for more heavy-duty, large scale things. I fixed my wife’s broken ceramic bird bath with it. It’s like concrete when it cures.
I’ve used it several times as a filler and it works wonderfully. I had a huge issue with a tamiya 32nd scale F-15C where the mold was short shot, resulting in about a half inch void just aft of the nose landing gear. I used milliput and a few weeks later, even I couldn’t remember what area had to be fixed. I also use it on some kits that have nasty wing joins. Doesn’t shrink, hardness of surrounding plastic allows rescribing without crumbling, and it can easily be shaped or molded with water. Also Sands like a champ. Cadet chuck, try using a razor to cut equal parts off both sticks at the same as. As far as it going bad in a few months, that sounds like you’re not properly closing it. I’ve had the same box for over two years and just used some on my last project this month and it held up equally as good as day one.
Thanks guys. Just finished repairing some gaps on 1/24 typhoon nose cowlings. Found it easy to work with and clean up. Gaps filled, scribed panel lines before cured, no surface detail lost. Smoothed with wet finger. Like the stuff a lot. Thanks for the replies