Hi everyone,
I have tried to use these solutions but I end up with disastrous results each time. I am using the solution that claims to make the decals look ‘painted on’ can’t remember if it’s Set or Sol.
Anyway, I am building a 1/12 Yamaha YZF 500 motorbike kit from Tamiya and have had to buy another one just to get a new set of decals!! I have found that this stuff is okay for small decals but dries too quick to allow you to position larger decals. I ended up tearing nearly all of the large Red Bull sponsorship decals, or they stuck to my fingers when I gently tried to position them a bit better. I tried placing the decals without the solutions and had no problems. So what is the real benefit if this product? Or is it just me and my big 'ol clumsy hands?? Any tips would be great as I am losing my mind…
If the solutions are giving you trouble on larger decals go ahead and place them without the solution. Once the decal is in place take some Micro-Sol on a soft brush and very gently wipe it across the decal or even touch to the edge of the decal and let it wick into the decal. It will soften the decal material so that it snuggles down perfectly. I put some Micro-set down first then place the decal but that’s just me. You can even apply Micro-Sol after the decal has dried to make it snuggle down more.
Micro-Set is gentle solution
Micro-Sol is strong solution
Once agaian, thank you for your invaluable advice. It’s so frustrating to have a near complete model almost ruined by bad decal application!
Dan
Dan, you should be able to acquire a new decal sheet from the manufacturer without having to buy a whole new kit. Just contact the manufacturer and a request a decal sheet for the
kit #.
DJ
Dan,
Different decal manufacturers products will have different effects with Micro-set/Sol, Mr. Mark Softer, Sovlaset etc etc…Also depends on the clear decal paper type, the type of inks used, the printing process, the clear carrier film…too many variables to make any hard-and-fast rules.
Always test the decal solvent on a decal that won’t be easily seen or missed (in case it ends up ruined) -
I also will often place the decal and then try to allow the setting solution run under the decal - again, with the thicker decals (like some of the Tamiya 1/12 GP bike decals) letting the decal wrinkle up and then lay down by itself doesn’t always work…sometimes I’ve ended up with permanently wrinkled decals.
Never just buy another kit to get decals - your local hobby shop should be able to order them for you - if they can’t be bothered doing this for you, I’d buy my models elsewhere.
Every model manufacturer has a distributor (Marco Polo, for example, imports many different brands into the US) and it’s their job to service their clients (both the model shops and the end users).
I’ve purchased replacements parts and decals many times from our Tamiya distributor here in Oz (they make it harder than it needs to be, though) but it eventually worked.
Cheers
LeeTree
Dan, I found if I use my fingers to position a decal I usally tear the decal. I like to use a wet Q tip. This is much more gentle and aids in positioning decals.