Any ideas on MG 42/34 belts in 1/35? I’ve been experimenting with masking tape and thin copper wire pieces. Pretty difficult.
Any ideas would help (including where to purchase them)
I think Tamiya included some belts in their German infantry accessory set, or was it .30 and .50 cal rounds with their US infantry accessory set?
Some companies do PE ammo belts, but they look too flat and two-dimensional to me. Most DML sets and some Tamiya sets come with injection-molded ammo belts that look good. You can use basically any 30 cal. (7.62mm, close enough to 7.9mm) ammo belt.
Dragon usually includes one where there is a man with a MG42. Tamiya’s MG troops set also has some. Verlinden makes a MG34 set with the belt but I’m not sure about one for the MG42.
David
I take the plastic ammo belts provided with the kits (Dragon/DML and sometimes Tamiya) and cut them into 1- to 4-round (bullet) sections, then glue the sections back together in the manner I like. I usually cut from the original belt as I work, that way I know how many rounds to separate for the next portion. Sometimes I use a very thin wire or strip of masking tape to provide a backing for the ammo belt and something extra for the little sections and glue to adhere.
I did a little dio of the Tamiya German MG team walking down a road, and I used this technique for draping the ammo belt around one of the A-gunner’s neck and shoulders. Currently, I am working on a Hanomag dio and have a gunner manning the MG 42 on the top. I used this method to drape the belt over his left hand helping to feed the belt into the weapon.
[WARNING: this method requires a great deal of patience and small amounts of super glue.]
Also, don’t forget that the MG 34 and 42 used a reusable linking system that stayed intact after going through the weapon. I scratchbuilt this by taking a thin strip of masking tape folded over on itself (no adhesive on the outside), then crimping it in a pair of serated surgical forceps. Then carefully, remove the tape, coat it with super glue and let dry. You may need to re-crimp after the glue dries, then paint and weather as desired. It’s a great effect!
This is the easiest and most realistic way I have found so far (PE is too flat for my liking), hope it helps!