Okay gang. I warned you that I’m up for a challenge. When I was 8, I built the best. I intend to reclaim my title[;)].
Here’s my second build in over 25 years. The P-38 was just a Milk-run (yes, I’m still on for the GB). I plan to eventually take this one over to the Dio forum. Big plans, men; but I can do it only with Your help! WE can make this HAPPEN!! I’m building the Revell 85-6500 kit of the B-17G called El Lobo II. Overtime will be mandatory if you choose to sign on. Here is our route…
The bronze tint inside the fuse is a ploy (bad lighting) designed to distract. It worked well on me. Bombay and rear starboard doors are opened. Forward crew-hatch will be opened soon. TIP: There’s a locator pin on the right fuse half that fits behind the bombardiers ammo crate when assembled. Cut about 1/2 mile off of it!
While doing all of the cutting, I’ve managed to keep my anticipation at bay by painting finer than I thought I was capable of. Gentlemen. THESE BRUSHES COST’ $6! That’s almost a 12 pack of cheap beer. I agree that brushes have a longer service-life. Next photo, please…
Here, I have done my very first Scratch building. The 02 bottle at the aft wall of the Navigators station, a map and notebook on the table, too. A pad of paper in the radio room. I’m using scrap poly-styr from work. We get it in several different mils.
I need your help here. I want to ‘wash’ the interior ribbing of the fuse which is presently painted with MM enamel 1246 Met Silver. I have no Acrylic paints readily available. I could get them if that is my only option. I know that most of this will never be seen once I close it up but, I’m just having a great time doing it and taking pics. I want to know my enemies weakness and I am entrusting YOU to supply that information![oX)]
Thanks guys. John, I’m sure you have plenty to contribute. Hit me! Mucker, if this puppy makes it to the dio stage, I’ll gladly share the credits!
RadMax. I found some Testors acrylics at WM. What I want to do is just ‘shadow’ the interior fuse structure while leaving it looking like bare aluminum. Keep in mind, I’m also dealing with recessed lines such as I cut into one of the bay doors. Would you recommend black, brown, or other color or combination? The Aluminum color has cured for almost a week now. Will it need a Clear-coat before washing, or can I just go with it? I suppose I’ll also, eventually, be repeating this process on the exterior. Any tips are muchos appreciated.
PS : I’ve read up on the subject at great sites like Swammys. I guess I just want to dive from the 16’ board before I try the one in the kiddie-pool[XX].
Joe. Daywalker. Don’t patronize me. I might get a big head[}:)].
I’m just really getting into it, folks. Having the best times I’ve had in years! I know what I did correctly. I seriously want criticism. I thrive on it (reminds me of w*rk). Digital pics show me where I colored outside of the lines. I need Historical Inaccuracies brought to my attention. I understand about field mods, too. Why I’m so obsessed about this, I may never know. Or maybe I do.
Am I having a mid-life crisis? I’m 41. Should I consult you guys before I buy a '69 Chevy SS El Camino? [BH][BH][BH]
Preston, I usually clear coat the whole insides and then just slop wash into the crevaces. For metallics I use black, for interior green stuff, a black or brown would be appropriate. You might want to find water-soluble ink. I use some black mixed with water and it works real nice. Just make sure you put plenty of soap in the concoction so it doesnt stick so much. This makes it easier to clean off areas where you’ve made an oops.
i dont blow smoke preston. your paintwork is fantastic. as for historical accuracy i have seen multiple colors for many of the items in the pit. your rendition is just as accurate as mine.
Preston, the soap works for anything water-based, acrylics included. Regular ol’ dish soap works fine. It makes it harder for the paint to stick to the item, which is good for washes. That way you cna clean up easier. once they dry and you put a flat coat over a wash, it’s sealed just fine, no worries about it coming off.
Thanks for the input on ‘wash’, guys. I’ll be trying that this weekend and (maybe) post my results. You didn’t see the IP (yet) because my dry-brushing leaves much to be desired[8)].
I need a bit more help… The right-rear door has 5 big ‘pits’ in it. Does anyone know if these are realistic? I ask because I cut the door open to display it in a tarmac dio. I can’t find any pics showing the inside of that door. Thinking of filling them in. If I shouldn’t, please stop me soon!
The bronze tint inside the fuse is a ploy (bad lighting) designed to distract. It worked well on me. Bombay and rear starboard doors are opened. Forward crew-hatch will be opened soon. TIP: There’s a locator pin on the right fuse half that fits behind the bombardiers ammo crate when assembled. Cut about 1/2 mile off of it!
While doing all of the cutting, I’ve managed to keep my anticipation at bay by painting finer than I thought I was capable of. Gentlemen. THESE BRUSHES COST’ $6! That’s almost a 12 pack of cheap beer. I agree that brushes have a longer service-life. Next photo, please…
Here, I have done my very first Scratch building. The 02 bottle at the aft wall of the Navigators station, a map and notebook on the table, too. A pad of paper in the radio room. I’m using scrap poly-styr from work. We get it in several different mils.