Canopy Opening
I always study my ref before tackling a sub-assembly and noticed that the kit rear canopy opening was just plain wrong. Curses! The rails need to be fixed and the opening re-shaped. I’ve already glued a bit of styrene into the gap to shorten it up.

I cut a new opening, matching it to the PE inner rail and photographic ref. That notch is abit deep and got a styrene bit to fix it. Also note the block in place to level out the rail.

The inner rail is supported by a shelf. You can see a punch-disc pulley in the cut-out.

Here’s the finished bit. Inner and outer rails have been added, the handgrip and circular port filled and rescribed.

A much more accurate set of rails for a late-model Beast. The compulsive nerd in me can now sleep at night… :coolio:

While I’m railing on- how about the gunner’s footrail? The kit’s is pretty basic, and that oxygen bottle has to make way for sweet, sweet resin…

Styrene rod to the rescue!

Now I could finally move on to the rear sidewalls- I’m working on the starboard side first. I mixed bits of the kit sidewall, the True Details O2 bottle, styrene, wire and solder.

A broken guitar string serves as the oxygen hose. I heated it red hot in a gas flame and let it cool slowly to anneal it and make it pliable. That white circle is a styrene disc filling an ejector pin depression.

The True Details radio boxes are more square than the kit examples. Each box and rail is a separate piece and need to be glued, drilled and pegged. I used copper wire for that, clipping the excess off after the glue had set.

The TD parts have a lot of character- it’s a shame I’ve got to scrape it off to make way for the Eduard printed faces- they can’t be beat!

I started to replace the upper rack with a simple shelf, but photo ref revealed a much more interesting rack. As I’m building -4E model I’ll have to scratchbuild the APNS radar set and it’s components to mount here

The radio is seen temporarily in place- it’s a busy little station!

The space behind the radios was wide open- I can’t bring myself to hide it behind the kit “bulkhead”. There’s a rollover pylon, fuel tank and lot’s of cool piping. I could open up some inspection hatches… do you dare me? :taunt:

Peer pressure!
So, here goes- I cut away the bulkhead, thinned the sides (sooooooo boring!), filled the ejector pin marks, thinned the sides some more and cut away the access panels. Not all -4’s had the upper panel, but I figured screw it! I want this work to be seen. Next came the fun stuff- building up the inner ribbing. Aaaah- modeling heaven!

I began building from the front of the compartment- here are the two front legs of the turnover pylon and the pilot’s armor panel. Details from bits of strip stock and sliced sprue, just like our armor-building brethren. See the notes for various details- and pitfalls!

The ribbing on the other side was a bit more challenging with the various subcomponents already in place. Not crushing things is always priority one! I glued the front assembly in and added one of the rear braces. Note that I’ve gotten those rivets installed correctly at last.

The fourth leg was carefully added- I did some test-fitting with the other fuselage half in place before gluing.
The radio is set in place temporarily to assess the size of the pylons. I’m doing this by the Mk I Eyeball method.

I did some caliper measurements on the space between the pylon legs, drew up some paper patterns and cut the endcaps of the tank from styrene. These in turn were glues to a small block of balsa wood. The tank is, lengthwise, flat along the top but sloped on the bottom, so these endcaps are differently-sized.

With a sanding block I carved the tank to shape- it was pretty easy, as the endcaps set the shape. I got the to and bottom angles right, but the tank was too long. Well, it’s easier to take material away than add it… 

Using my trusty calipers I scribed a line around the rear end of the tank, held my breath and cut it off. Success! From here it was a simple trick to glue it a scrap of styrene and trim that down to match the balsa profile. Whew!

I wrapped a bit of paper around the tank to create a rough pattern, then used it to cut a piece from .010 styrene. Wrapped, glued and trimmed to shape, it’s starting to look like a fuel tank! There’s more shaping to be done- I’ll break out the Miliput for that. This photo shows how much more internal ribbing needs to be added- not much, but that’s for later! ;D

Tank and some wires
First order was to add the rounded ends of the fuel tank from Milliput, smoothed out with a wet, sloppy finger. I usually hold the camera in my teeth for this kind of shot, but my wife helped out this time- thanks, Honey!

While harding for the putty to harden I whipped up some sub-assemblies and such. There’s a big ring around the fuel filler cap, so that was first- here’s how I did it:



Next came the filler neck itself. I was guessing at the length- it was later cut to fit.

The Helldiver’s wing tanks were inked to the main tank by a series of beautifully bent, nesting lines. A template is the only sane way to do this, so I broke out the calipers, took some measurements off the rear rollover bar and drew a guide onto some cardboard. The various marks were used to bend the three differently-stepped lines. I used copper wire for the lines, and bent them using my Mission Models Etchmate. The template made it relatively easy.

One week later I got back to the tank itself. The Milliput sanded easily and to a beautiful surface.

All this from two old photos! The notes explain a lot, but patience was the main ingredient. I bent the three nesting lines first, then the feed lines from the tank itself. The auxiliary lines that run under the tank were last. The nested lines were glued first ( they run down into the wing roots and out of sight). Next the tank was wiggled into place and its lines added. lastly the auxiliary lines went in. The fuel filler cap was the cerry on the cake. 








The radio got some love, too- but that’s another story… 
