Mea Culpa and Halogen lights

Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials Techniques
1

I can’t believe I did this, but I did, and need some suggestions.

It was cold in my garage where I attempt to build my models. I put my nearly finished Dornier Do17z bomber under a 150 watt Halogen light, about two and a half feet away, and in less than a minute it melted the top half of the wing. It’s not bad really, (ok, it’s really bad) about 1 inch wide and thankfully outboard of the engine nacelle and no harm at all to the underside.
This thing has been my obsession for about the last three months, and I have so much time into it that I really don’t want to abandon it.

Should I -

  1. Fill in the void with squadron putty, sand and blend it smooth and repaint that area. (I’m afraid that the putty will shrink over time and look terrible later).

  2. Cut away the damaged plastic on the upper wing half and scab in a piece of styrene, then sand and blend.

  3. Send it to someone and have it fixed.

  4. Throw it away and finish the second one (same kit) I’m working on.

Keep in mind that these are old Monogram OOP kits. I bought them on Ebay.

If you could see it before the damage you would understand why I want to salvage it. I have some pics, but don’t know how to post them right now.

Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.

[banghead][banghead][banghead]

Bottom line
Patience = virtue
Halogens = BAD

Please help, Stinger

2

Here are a few options.

Your number 2 sounds ok. Can’t comment on number 1 as I don’t use Squadron putty.

Since you got another identical Kit, there ae 2 suggestions using the 2nd Kit to help fix the 1st one.

1.) Build the wing, make a mold and cast a resin replacement part.

2.) Make a vac-form mold of the new wing and either cast a new par (1 part mold)t or just the section that is damaged.

3.) Make a vac-form copy and cut/paste that into the damaged wing. Involve s both female and male mold making.

And of course the final and last resort, downed and damaged airplane.

FWIW, now you know why Movie and TV-Models are made mostly from wood and similar non-melting components.

3

Thanks madmod - I need some support on this thing. I think the #2 is the way also, and most cost effective.

I had no idea that a relatively low watt halogen would do that, but then when you think about it, we straighten parts under hot water, eh?

re: Movie models - Here in Denver there is an air museum displaying an original full-size X-wing fighter that was used in the Star Wars Movie. You’re right. All nonmelting materials.

Thanks for your advice.

Stinger

4

I’d go with option 2 or the previous poster… I don’t undertand exactly how large this gash is, but you don’t want too much putty in one place. There’s a reason why they don’t recommend cramming it into the nose to create a weight… too much will literally melt the plastic.

5

ckfred - yeah, I know about the nose weight thing. I did that ten years ago on a Skyray. That’s why I’m leery of using the putty. The full damage is about 1 inch wide and from leading edge back to the aileron. Pretty substantial, really.
I’ve been in touch with LeeTree about dupicating some parts in resin, so I may go that route. Think I’ll try my #2 first, as if it doesn’t work, it won’t hurt anything, and there are very few panel lines to scribe back in, but I do like the concept of duplication and just ‘inserting’ an exact piece in. Kinda like it was a piece of the original construction process.

This is really helping guys, you got me thinking, and feeling better already[:)].

Stinger