What the best way or what the best tape/tools to mask off areas of a plane’s adjecent colors w/o ripping off the other color? What is good primer/base? In addition to a WW2 fighter w/ regular camo, I’m thinking about buildin an old jet and painting with metalizer paints. I like how some buildres are able to plae two tones of silver right nest to earch other. Very cool. but how?\ thx
I always use plain old masking tape, but then again, I only use enamels. I’ve heard a few horror stories about masking tape and acrylics.
For the metallizers, DO NOT use regular tape!!! I use POST-IT notes. Flat areas are easy enough, but you’ll have to get creative on curved areas. For example: a fuselage, the post-it won’t stick all the way around, so you’ll have to use some regular tape wrapped all the way around to hold the post-it in place, just make sure there is a post-it or paper under the tape. Hope that makes a bit of sense.
Here are some thoughts for you;
I sand as much of the surfaces to be painted as possible with 800 or 1000 grit sand paper after cleaning the surfaces with alchohol, or a commercial cleaning preperation, e.g. Poly S prep. Avoid oily finger prints, wear gloves. Next I use a lacquer based primer designed for plastic. A light coat will do for sealing filler and making imperfections show up. Sand againg after fixing imperfections and spray on another light coat of primer. Check for runs and any other imperfections and lightly sand. Try not to break through the primer. Cover the model and let it dry over night. Use low tack masking tape, or “Drafting Tape” available at art supply stores and other office supply stores. Do not mask over new paint, especially acrylics or other water based paints. Do not spray directly into the tape as this builds up paint at the edge of the tape. I usually shoot a light coat of clear over the tape edge to prevent the “color” from runnning under the edge of the tape. Spray from behind the tape edge if you can, or at something less than 90 degrees to the edge. Note that you can also use things like the “Post-it” paper to mask off areas,but be careful to not spray directly at the edge as it will lift with enough air pressure (don’t ask!). Pull the masking before the areas dry and then let the painted areas dry before applying any masking media.
Consider such things as Parafilm and silly putty as your masking media. Low tack easy to use.
Blue Painters Tape. It comes in various levels of tackiness. I have never lost an edge, and I am not that skilled or careful about handling my finishes before painting. It’s easy to work with and available everywhere. Rick
I use Tamiya tape, as its low tack and comes in different widths. I also use blue painters tape to do large areas but will use Tamiya tape to create the edges first. Likes others have said, if you are planning ot use Testor’s Metalizers - they are notorious for lifting and being delicate. Every type of tape I’ve tried have lifted. You will have to use post-it for straight edge maskings, parafilm or sillyputty as suggest by hawkeye works great for curved ediges. I’ve since switched to Alclad (lacquer based) or Talon (acrylic based) paint instead.
Long ago I picked up the habit of using regular old hi tack masking tape, but I don’t ever stick it to anythign unless i first stick it to my forearm and rip if off. I have never had a problem marring any surface or lifting any paint, and I use acrylics only.
one would think the lacquer based metalizers would stick better…
Well a pic is worth a thousand words so i’m gonna put a couple up…
This Spit was done useing 40mm Tamiya tape, 10mm tamiya tape and a10mm flexible vinyl automotive tape used by used by painters to do pin striping…
The tamiya tape won’t go around corners so i cut the 40mm tape into smaller sections, the grey was painted first and to mask for the green going from the port wing cannon over the fueselage and down the other side i used four idividualy cut peices of tape, the first was from the cannon to the wing root the next from the wingroot to the top of the fueselage then another down the other side to the wingroot and the final peice from the wingroot onto the other wing…It takes a while but i had no lifting at all…
I also barrier coated the grey with a coat of future to protect it from tape pulling it off and my own clumsy hands…I always put down a coat of future on anything i paint to protect it…
NMF
I’ve never used testors so i can’t comment on that, my chosen paint is allclad II lacquer based paint… More pics …sorry…
After sanding this P-51 i put down a coat of future before applying the white aluminum, once that was dry another coat of future went on to protect it, then i masked the gunbay panels, undercoated with black and sprayed on allclad II duraluminum…all the control surfaces are also painted in duaraluminum…
This mustang is currently being built in the NMF group build, and i recommend looking at page one of this thread to see how the other guys (many useing foil) acheived their outstanding NM finishes…
Other guys on this site, many whom i consider to be my peers have differnt methods which work just as well if not better, i would love to have the patience to use foil but i don’t so find something that works for you…
Hope i’ve been of some help…Jules…
Lots of good tips here but I have 2 questions.Waht is parafilm and where can I get it?
I use low-tack painter’s tape (Blue tape) or Post-It notes… Also use regular masking tape, but I make it less sticky firt by applying it to my forehead first, to give it a little “Skin oil”, which reduces its chances of ripping off the underlying color…
I use rattle-can automotive primer (True Color brand) from Wal-Mart… Works for painting WW2 USAAF Neutral Grey as well… BUT… For metallics, I HIGHLY recommend the use of a good Gloss Black enamel as a primer… Even if you’re not using Al-Clad or Rub & Buff, Testor’s Model Master metalizers benefit from its use as well…
Again, I use Post-It notes for the smaller panels of different shades of metallics… I paint the entire aircraft in the base metallic, then seal it, let it ccure, then apply the next shade of metallic…
You can try something new too…there’s a product called “Frog Tape”. it is basically masking tape, but it is designed not to pull off paint where it is applied. it is also designed to mask a much tighter edge than regular masking tape. It comes in two types, the green is for regular use, while the yellow is for use on freshly painted dellicate surfaces. Contractors use this for interior painting. We use it all the time at work. I never tried it on a model but I would imagine that it would do the job. Look at your local hardware/painter’s supply store, or at places like Home Depot or Lowe’s.
I use Micro Scale’s Micro Mask liquid masking compound. Just brush it on, let it set, then carefully use an Xacto blade to make sure it’s only where you want it. After you paint, it peels up with very little effort. There’s another compound that does the same basic thing called “Ambroid” I haven’t used this one yet but I hear it’s good as well. I get great results and it’s a lot easier to mask with than tapes. It’s EXTREMELY useful for small components which you can’t really get at with tapes. Most hobby stores carry one or both of these. I personally find the prices a bit better through some of the eBay vendors.
I use frog tape almost exclusively for masking exterior surfaces. Never really had any troubles with it. It’s a little thinner than the Blue tape, and it doesn’t often leave residue. If it does, it’s easy to remove with some careful work with a Q-tip.
Parafilm is a product of the Pechiney Plastic Packaging Company, based in Chicago, IL. It consists of a flexible film, available in several different lengths and widths. It is commonly used for sealing or protecting vessels. It is stretchable, moldable, waterproof, odorless, thermoplastic, semitransparent and self-adhering. It is also used to further seal a lidded container against moisture for long term storage.
Parafilm also has gained a reputation among modelers as an ideal masking material for use during airbrushing, due to its lack of tackiness, which can destroy a finish.
Where to buy:
http://www.2spi.com/catalog/supp/supp4b.shtml
Lastly, all the tools come down to on thing…What works best for you? Only time will tell
The last batch of Parafilm I had was made by 3M. It is truly thin and stretchey, and very low tack, but I have had problems getting it to stick to the models properly; also it is difficult to cut in place, it tends to wander around and not cut cleanly. I have found it useful for small patchwork masks, but it’s really not made to be a masking tape.
To use parafilm properly, you must stretch the stuff out to at least 2x original size, otherwise it will lift every easily. But agreed it definitely lifts much easier than tape.