What is your method for masking to get a soft camoflage edge? I have used Blu tac (poster gum) and airbrushed perpindicular to the surface. This has worked well. But is there an easier way? if you use tape or paper type masks how do you space it from the surface to get the effect? If this question is a common modeling technique that I’m not aware of then call me a dummy. Your responses are appreciated.
Your method is probably the easiest. I’ve used that method plus the paper mask method described at this link at ARMORAMA.COM
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=448
I’ve used this method for masking large areas and I’ve used the putty to hold the paper in place and to keep it above the actual model’s surface.
I’;ve tried a few of them but my favorite is the blu-tac method. I’d stick with that, personally
Aurora, The article you referred me to is what prompted my post. I’ll try the article’s paper mask technique but I don’t think it will yield the soft edge that I want. I’d like that technique to work however because it seems fast. Thanks for your reply.
Any other techniques out there?
I do a variation on the paper masking for a soft edge- Cut the design you want roll up small pieces of blue-tac and stick to the underside of the paper. Put the paper mask on the plane and push gently where the blue-tac is so it sticks to the plane. Since the mask is held above the surface because the blue tac is in between, you can get a soft edge. Experiment on the angle of the airbrush, as you can control how soft it is.
You could also cut your templates and attach them to the model with that thick, two-sided foam tape, which would hold the template a uniform distance from the surface, giving you your soft edges.
I use a variation on the paper mask. I use very light cardboard, as in 3X5" file cards, or very heavy bond paper. Trace & cut the camo pattern from the paper. I tack it in place with Scotch double sided tape, but I first reduce the adhesive by placing it on the back of my hand. This picks up some skin oil or dry skin particles & reduces the tapes aggressivity. Spray away from the mask edge at about a 45 degree angle. Gives a subtle soft edge which is appropriate for 1/48 scale.
Regards, Rick
I stole some Silly Putty from my son, works great and is reusable. Roll out a section and apply to the model, varying the angle of the airbrush will control how “hard” the edge is. Just don’t get any in areas that have a grill, hypothetically, say the air intake on a Stuka 
Depends on scale and how soft edge I want it . This 1/48 Phantom was painted freehand with no masks if I want a tighter pattern I use the blu tac and paper pattern method.
What is Blue Tac? Where do you get it?
Thanks, Darwin
‘Blu Tac’ is a product that aids in sticking posters on walls.
Here it’s called Blu Tac, cause it’s blueish in colour {duh![;)])
I have also seen it yellow in colour.
Check out your local stationary store, arts store, or even supermarket.
Just tell them you want to stick some posters up without using pins or sticky tape.
Usually it is packed in a pack of 3 or 5 long strips.
Mind you, someone here will know the name of it in the US.
“blu tac” is made by Du-Pont . I get it at my local hardware store in the home section.
I just started doing free-hand camo patterns. lightly trace the pattern in a soft-pencil. Then with your airbrush at low pressure and a light hand retrace the outlines and spray towards the center of the color you are using to avoid overspray, then simply infill.
For more complex patterns, I’ll rescale the pattern from the insructions on a xerox machine using plain paper and cut them out, back them with a snake of bluetac (1/16" to 1/8" depending on the softness I want) and spray like rick suggests.