I’ve gotten away from full-size household masking tape over the past year or so, except to cover larger areas, and then only after using forehead oil to de-tack it. But now I see this blue tape all over the place. Is it different, somehow, or is it simply regular tape dyed blue? I simply could not keep the old stuff from creeping, and if you use the old method of spraying the edge of the tape to provide a seal against creep, you wind up with a cliff separating the two colors being masked.
tom
Sharkskin:
The bluetape is already a lowtack tape used by painters. It also feels thinner than regular masking tape (to me anyway). So the cliff you refer to is eliminated.
I had the same creep problem as well. Even with the blue tape at times. I read somewhere ( I think it was FSM) that if you think you will have a creep problem. Lay your mask down and brush a thin coat of future around the edges of the mask. Let it dry and paint away.
I tried this on a canopy (my biggest creep problem) and it worked as advertised. It was the first canopy I ever did that the paint didn’t creep and the mask came off with no ill effects either.
Hope this helps
Paul
Much thanks.
Ahh, another great use for Future, Thanks, I’ll try it too. I have resorted to using expensive drafters tape and Tamiya tape.
Tom,
I’ve always used Bare Metal Foil to mask canopies - I always get perfect results with it for “glass”.
I also use Tamiya tape - it’s really very effective, and as it’s thin and doesn’t have that crinkled surface for the paint to crawl under, I seldom have the “creep” problem with it. I’ve heard many times that people spray or paint a clear coat to seal the edges of a mask, but I’ve never needed it.
I’ve not yet tried the blue painters tape, and as I’ve had good results with what I use, I might not have a need - but if I see a roll, I’ll give it a go.
A couple of suggestions:
Try “drafting” tape. It is a low “tack” tape and is thin. “Pin-striping tape”, used in the automotive wolrd, is very flexable for masking curved surfaces, and does not leave the sticky residue when pulled off. Both of the aforementioned products are relatively expensive, but woth it IMHO.
The 3M sticky pads also work well for masking and can be cut to shape for camo patterns. 3M also makes a masking material that is used in the medical profession that can be stretched after it is warmed. It is very thin when stretched, and cuts very easily with a sharp hobby knife so that the excess can be removed from the area to be painted. It also will not leave a residue when pulled off. If it is stretched properly it will not leave a masking “edge”.
When painting a masked area, try not to spray into the masking edge in order to avoid a build up of paint and “creep” under the masking material.
As mentioned above a coating of clear or Future helps to seal the masking edge, but can add to the build up of paint. It helps to remove the masking before the paint is dry so that the paint around the edge “lays down” when it dries. This helps minimize the “edge”.
Just some thoughts, rangerj
Like Lee, I’ve gotten into the habit of using Bare Metal for masking elaborate canopies, like, say, an F-84G. It’s a very expensive way to mask, but worth it on a build you’re proud of, and which could be ruined with a stinko paint job on the clear parts.
I’ve also found a wonderful liquid mask after all these years that is perfect for painting fold-out landing lights and red/green position lights, as well as smaller windows: Parma International Liquid Mask. Goes on light blue, but dries clear, and it’s pretty cheap. I’ve found, however, that if you don’t like liquid maskers that dry clear, add a few drops of food coloring. This Parma dries quickly, peels off in one nice, rubbery piece, and is in general the only liquid mask I’ve found to be worth my trouble.
When mentioning Tamiya tape, do you mean the little rolls of 1/16 to 1/4 regular masking tape? I use that for specialized work, but Lord does it creep. But I seem to remember a yellow, thin Tamiya tape that was more rubbery in texture. Is this it?
I think they are referring to the yellow colored Tamiya masking tape
that comes in 6, 10 & 18mm. (and 40mm too!)
it does not creep, but its texture is almost like fine paper or cloth.
it is a little pricey the first time (if you are getting a dispenser),
but the refills are not that expensive .
worth every penny!
does not remove acrylic paint, forms well to curves, seals out paint
w/ a light burnishing of edge.
to see images of it, go to www.greatmodels.com & search on tamiya tape.
For me it’s the Tamiya “yellow” tape & Scotch Brand #230 Drafting tape. The blue painters tape works well also, but I prefer to keep the number of different tapes on my bench at a minimum of variety.
Regards, Rick
You guys reminded me: I’ve been out of 3M drafting tape for a while and it’s a necessity in any model workshop. And as for 3M Post-It Notes (personally, I use the cheapest sticky pads I can find and get the same result) I wonder if anyone else puts them to the same use I do:
For painting camouflage schemes (like SEA or WW II British, as well as dozens of others), I cut out the proper patterns for the scheme, and then determine how hard or soft the scheme needs to be. Then I take a stack of sticky pads and attach them to the bottom of the camo pattern, a good half-inch back from the edge. The hardness or softness of the edges is determined by the thickness of the stack of sticky pads you use to attach the pattern. The taller the stack, the softer the edge, and vice-versa. I have been using this method for a dozen years with nothing but good results. Occasionally, you have to cut the sticky pads to fit in tight spots, but otherwise, use them “as is” and, the best part, you can use them over and over. Buy them in bulk from the local office supply warehouse store. And never use the name brand. It’s a waste of money.
I use regular 3M drafting tape for masking sharp paint lines. The trick is to cut off the ragged edge of the tape so that you have a nice sharp edge. It’s not really labor intensive and it works fine. I like bare-metal on complex canopies too, but I hate the residue.
[#ditto] I just finished camo schemes on two P-40’s using Tamiya tape, and had no problem with creep or with a step. I just burnish the edges down with a toothpick or the back of my thumbnail. If I had a digital camera, I post some pictures here.
The 3M drafting tape sounds good, but I adhere to the policy of “It it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” As long as I get the results I like with Tamiya tape, I’ll continue to use it.
Mark
For most masking jobs, Tamiya tape is the best for me. Perfect results almost all the time (my fault if it didn’t come out well [:D]). But for compound curves (lots of convex & concave surfaces) I use Micron or Kyosho Fine Line tape which I buy from R/C hobby shops. I gather hobbyists use it for detailing R/C vehicles. It has a rubbery, crinkled texture which makes it great for conforming to complex shapes. I use the 1 mm width tape to define the edges of the mask, and then fill in the rest of the mask with Tamiya tape or whatever low-tack tape I have. Some creep may occur if paint is laid on heavily, but I avoid it by spraying thin coats in layers.