Masking tape is leaving a stipple/dot pattern in my dry acrylic paint. The paint is not peeling off the model. I have 3M blue painters tape.
So far I read not to leave the tape on any longer than needed for drying. Also to use the tape elsewhere so it’s not sticky.
What are the best practices for using masking tape? How do you get sharp lines with no underbleed.
Washi tape… check this out.
I used that on a model. Once. It’s very aggressive and for our purposes is a mistake waiting to happen.
I use Tamiya tape but after watching a bit of the video that DisasterMaster linked to above, might try the stuff Phil Flory is talking about. Phil hasn’t steered me wrong yet.
When folk talk about ‘detacking’ masking tape, it means stick it to your pants and peel it off a few times. No, really, I’m not kidding.
When airbrushing, don’t spray against the seam. And don’t spray too heavy or wet, that’s just asking for trouble.
Masking is more an art than a science if you ask me. You’ll get it.
Thanks! Have ordered some Tamiya and Washi tape!
Yeah I was shocked and disappointed to see the paint mess that got under my tape after I pushed it down. Guess a wrinkle did me in.
what greg said
Thanks! Will do!
Glad to hear you ordered some proper tape. Atta boy.
BTW, regarding the above, another thing you can and arguably should do is burnish down the edge of the tape. I have a couple metal burnishing tools that work well but found later that the blunt end of a toothpick is just dandy for the job.
Burnishing can help with the bleed-under.
Yeah I use my Tamiya tweezers. Thought I did a good job but nope.
I use Tamiya paint, but have had similar problems with other tapes. I have found rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol removed the residue fine on enamels- don’t know if it is safe on acrylics, though.
Don’t know about your area but they stock it at the local Walmart back in the craft section right across from the 50¢ apple, plaid, and folk art craft paints.
For $2.93 a roll for 32 feet of it and you can easily cut it to the width you want making it much cheaper than 52 feet of tamiya tape.
Don’t bother to ask for it, nobody had heard or knew of it so I found it myself.
And yes, “any” masking tape definitely needs burnishing for maximum effect.
Thanks but I rarely go to stores. Amazon is way easier. 
I haven’t watched enough of the video yet to realize the product is available in brick and mortar stores. Thanks!
I sure get that. Though sometimes I still like the challenge of finding hobby stuff in retail stores.
Of course, I have far too much time on my hands and you may not
The local hobby shop closed down a few months ago. Oh well there are more around. Plan is to keep learning and build Star Wars ships and work my way up to the PG Millennium Falcon. Then I might do fighter jets, tanks, and classic muscle cars. WW2 and Vietnam war dioramas would be good too. I have my work cut out for me!
Make sure, as best you can, that the tape’s edge is crisp, and that it’s as tight to the surface as possible. You can burnish the edge down with a toothpick, or with the end of a paintbrush.
In addition to that, you can also apply a clear seal coat, to help seal the edge of the tape, before applying your finish color coat. Some guys use Future (clear acrylic) for this; I have, too, and found it effective to seal the edges.
Also, it doesn’t take a lot of paint. I find I’m more likely to get bleeding under the masking if I’m too heavy applying the color.
It’s only 5 miles away for me, no shipping.
Like others have mentioned, burnish the edges well and then clear coat them to avoid any bleed through. If your tape leaves a residue behind on the paint, use Goo Gone on a Qtip to easily wipe it away with no ill effects to the paint whatsoever.
BK
