Hey we are amor guys. We know how to hide those things. LOL. And we don’t mind knowing they are there, too.
Seriously, great job. I don’t think I can do something that good in a very short time.
awesome job wbill. I agree with everyone else just make the ground uneven. From looking at the picture with the one side of track there doesn’t really seem to be an obvious solution that I can see. Again it looks awesome. I cant wait to see the finished product.
Kenneth,
Thanks for the tips, was planning to browse throught the Diorama area for some ideas. The Pupchen is the wheeled variety, no skis.
Dwight,
I was absolutely thrilled with this Dragon kit, even with the tiny indy links, right up until I put that track on it and saw the shadow/daylight under the front wheel. It’s correctable by throwing it into a dio but I’d hoped to keep this one as a stand-alone along with my other stuff. The second track went on very smoothly with the lessons learned from the first one, now it’s a matter of markings and the weathering process along with a small shopping list. [:D]
That looks great wbill! The cam is awesome. Did you airbrush it? I tried that type of paint work with an airbrush for the first time on my MTD Tiger, and well.[banghead]… I definitely need to practice!
Buff,
Yes, the paintwork is done with an airbrush. I use an Aztek (I can hear the groans now!) with interchangeable tips and a small compressor designed for airbrush use. The camo color was applied using very low pressure with thinned paint at a very close distance using the double action trigger slowly one line at a time.
Best thing for practicing that I’ve found is a plain white sheet of paper. Depending on your setup, psi and paint/thinner ratios will vary but have a big impact on finished result. Try out different settings before you use it on a finished model and it will save a lot of headache.
hey wbill76,
You’d be better off practice spraying on a piece of styrene thats been painted. Airbrushing paint on paper will have a different finish than on primered or painted plastic. While a very good test bed, it has different surface qualities than plastic.
I keep a sheet of styrene handy and check my spray pattern on it. When it gets too difficult to see what I’m painting I just hit it with another coat of primer and it gives me a new blank canvas. Too much build up can be cleaned off with some alchohol or just a new primered piece of styrene.
Nice piece of model building there. I built Tamiya version of this and I’ve been looking into building dragon’s version. Hope its as good as yours.
BTW, I’m a big fan of the aztek and have used it for some pretty great paint jobs.
Renarts,
I have an old “war-weary” vehicle (currently a StuG III B) that I use for various test purposes. Your idea would work very handy as it could be kept right alongside while painting. You’re right about the paper, I use it just to test pressure/line width for splatter/overspray as opposed to scheme combos or overall schemes. Either that or a space on the spraying platform itself as a quick reference.
The Dragon kit came together very nicely I must say. The fear of the indy links being so tiny drove me to get the magnifier and it made a huge difference. I usually work in 1/35 scale and while this one is a 1/35, it felt like a 1/72 with a lot more parts. [:D]
The indys will work perfect for the way I want to display it. There is a photo in the ketten manual that shows the proper way to change the tracks on it. It shows the tracks laid out stright behind the ketten on the ground and the operator uses a hand bar with a ring handle and a hook to pull the tracks around the wheels.
Thought it would be a different and great way to display the model. The indys just fit in to this.
Mike is right I used to practice on paper now I use an old Tamiya King Tiger (70’s release) I keep a couple around for this purpose only… What you are doing seems to be working for you though because your AB job is excellent!
Mike,
If I’d known I was going to have to put this into a dio, I would probably have gone with something similar to what you are describing, it sounds perfect, especially if you had a guy scratching his head in bewilderment about handling the track links! [:D]
I scrounged around in my spares kit and found a figure from another Dragon kit that is posed carrying a jerry can. I think that will work nicely for a little roadside breakdown scenario as my first foray into dio building.
Decided to make a stab at a base (1st attempt ever at such a thing) and went down to my LHS and picked up some Woodland Scenics items. Used real dirt from the back yard as the foundation with Coarse Earth, Coarse Burnt Grass, and Fine Yellow Grass along with their Fine Brown Talus for the rocks. Base is a converted black finish acrylic display case with clear top that used to house my M10 Duckbill. Base measures 10"x6".
I know it looks rather plain, but I figured the simple approach was best. The Kettenkrad will be displayed off to the side of the torn up track area as if out of gas with the Pupchen hitched behind it and a single figure carrying a gerry can. Basic idea was that it would have been travelling with larger vehicles (torn up area is about double the track width on the Kettenkrad) and had fallen out while the hapless driver went to fetch some gas. Possible title is “A Pint’s a Pound…” in honor of the straining figure (not pictured here).
Any comments/suggestions are welcome.
Kudos Bill. A nice build and base to be. May you be an inspiration to the other Bill (WIPW) to get his going. [;)] Suddenly the tracks don’t seem so intimidating with the magnifier. I know what’s on my Christmas list.
[:D][;)]
Eric,
Let me know when you take the plunge. If you build the Dragon kit, there’s a neat little formula I figured out for making the tracks that dramatically speeds up the process and retains a lot of the workable qualities.
The magnifier has spoiled me in many ways. The lighting it adds is just phenomenal compared to the regular room lighting I’d been using.
If someone was really daring, they could organize a Mad Kettenkrad Day…[}:)]
Thanks for the tips, wbill. I was planning exactly that, but on some styrene that I keep for practice.
Bill,
good looking base!
i will have to get moving on my base when i return from the Glen.
but i am feeling more motivated now that i see your results.
mine will be a ‘first time’ too, and i am feeling a bit intimidated.
WW,
I have to admit it was very intimidating at first…I tried to sketch out some ideas on paper as a rough starting point and that seemed to help. Toughest part was deciding how to put the stuff on the base to begin with! I sat and stared at it for about 30 minutes before I just decided to throw stuff on it and play around with it until it looked decent. I commandeered three old seasoning bottles out of the kitchen cupboard and dumped their contents to use as shakers for the Woodland Scenics stuff, that worked out pretty well too. Who knew that Meat Tenderizer, Garlic Salt, and Poultry Seasoning would come into play for modelling? [:D]