2 questions. On an M60, how many track links per side? Second, with the AFV Club workable track links, it says not to glue, but should you?
An actual M60 has about 88 per side. A model has as many as it takes. I always glue the “workable” tracks. I see no need to leave them loose since I don’t plan on pushing it around the floor going “vroom, vroom”.
Thanks for the info. I was considering just gluing one block pin per link so they were still “workable” so I could paint them and put them on at the end
If you glue them in a flat configuration, that should work for the straight runs, ie. top and bottom, but will be problematic going around the sprockets and idlers. The end connectors will stick out at an unnatural angle instead of being flush against the wheels. Adjust the angle when you wrap around and all will be fine.
The center connector is molded to the block and already sticks out at an unnatural angle
I used the AFV Club tracks on both my M60A1’s and M1 Abrams. I didn’t glue them and they stayed on nicely. It made it easier to paint them and everything is aligned.
Remember that on an M60, the track ‘sag’ was 1/4 of an inch between return rollers (suspension rollers), so unless the crew isn’t doing their job, you won’t notice sag in 1/35 scale.
If the center guides look good when the track is ‘flat’ against the ground, then you shouldn’t have a problem as they’re hidden by the idler and sprocket.
Ron
the only time the center guide would be at the wrong angle is where the surrounding tracks are starting to change direction/angle like around the sprocket or compensating idler wheel. Then they are covered by the sprocket or road wheel.
You would see on the outside that they are at the wrong angle as well. I gently bend the center guides to the proper angle where they bend at the front and rear and they look just fine.
Like’s been said, the AFV Club tracks stay together fine without glue. It makes painting easy as they can be installed very late in your build, and once on, they stay on. In my experience, the end connectors tend to align properly around tight bends too.
Nice photos! An A3? Also, if the center guide is at an odd angle during the flat run of the track (especially on the return run up top), it’s a sure indication of a dead shoe. In other words, the rubber around the pin has worn away and there’s no spring left in that shoe, which allows the shoe next to it, as well as that shoe’s other pin with a good bushing around it, to over-compensate. One reason tankers ‘walk the track’ and watch every block as often as possible (once a day if conditions permit and at halts for the driver, as he checks hub temperatures and such). 
No, an M88A1
yeah, every during ops check on our AAVs, we did that, also check for water contamination in the hub.
LOL! YES! I didn’t even notice the flat hull sides, so busy looking at those spiffy tracks!
I have a dead link off of an '88.
Ron
on my A2 the road wheels were aluminum so there was a steel wear plate screwed to the inside of the road wheels. they will be rusty or shiny depending on usage. the same is true for end connectors and center guides IIRC. sitting in the motor pool in the BRD in winter, they would rust up quickly. a 20 km road march would shine them up.