I’m just starting to build an Italieri M-7, it’s my first armor model, and my third model overall, I’m not very good really, but I’m coming along. As it’s my first armor model, I’d like to know what information I should know before starting out, is there an order to build the chassis, and suspension, any little tricks that would make the whole process go a bit easier? Any aftermarket stuff that would make a big difference in how the model ends up looking? I have an airbrush and know how to use it, and I have some modeling skills, I want this to be a great model.
madda
Squadron lists it here http://squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=IT0206 with some accessories and referances. You can search for more on their site. I have never built this kit (or any open top armour) so I won’t try to give an exact building sequence, but my normal method is lower hull, upper hull and turret sub assemblys (turret? see that wouldn’t work).
Look in “techniques” for tips on washes and drybrushing.
Most importantly be patient and ask us if you have questions, we will gladly help.
Much thanks Clay. There is no turret, but there is a huge gun right in the middle. I always liked the priest, and after playing combat mission a good deal, I really got to like it a whole lot more. I will probably do a sherman next. Does anyone know if there is a kit available of a sherman crocodile? That is a hell of a tank.
madda
Madda, one thing to worry about when working on the Italeri Sherman chassis is the road wheel “bogies”. If you build them to pivot (rocking horse style) like indicated in the directions, the front and rear bogie bow upward. This is because the tracks are fairly tight and the pressure make them rock upwards.
The tracks are probably the stiffest in the market, but are well detailed. Aftermarket tracks appropriate for this kit run from $4 to $29. A DML set of individual links ($5) or AFV Club vinyl ($7) are fine for this kit.
RobG
Good advice by Major Rob in regards to the tracks, they can be a real pain. When you are ready to paint the Priest, it would probably be a lot easier to leave the gun out and attach it after painting. It’s your first piece of armour so enjoy it.
Oops … asleep at the switch … missed the part about the Sherman Crocodile. Let me guess, you saw the article by Zaloga on building one of these. Sorry to inform you there is no kit of one on the market. You can however build one by mating a Sherman with the Tamiya Churchill Crocodile trailer and some scratchbuilding. The hardest thing to find on this build is some decent reference pictures. If anyone does have some good ones, I’d be interested in them too.
I was watching Battel of the Bulge today and saw these in the back ground was wondering what they were as they lookeed cool. Now I know.
I have never seen an article on making a crocodile, but I’d be interested in reading it if you have a link to it maybe. That may be a later on project, as I don’t quite feel that my skills are up to scratchbuilding just yet. That is good info about the tracks, I’ll get some aftermarket ones when I order that photoetch detail set that Clay sent the link to. I’d really like this to be a good model, and I think it will be if I’m very careful. How hard are photoetch parts to cut off the sprue and bend to the right shape?
madda
PE isn’t that hard to cut off the sprue, just use a sharp hobby knife on a flat surface (like a cutting board). A good tip that was posted was to use masking tape to ensure that the part doesn’t launch to parts unknown. I use tweezers and a small set of needle nose plyers for bending PE but there are some hi-tech tools like the hold and fold that are on the market now. Some PE can be very small and requires a lot of patience when working with them. CA glue is a almost a must for working with PE. Depending on which PE set you order, remember that you don’t have to use the whole fret, just those pieces that you think will improve the overall look of the model.
Have fun building your Priest and keep us posted.