Redleg and HVH, Thanks for all the info. Was a little confused but you guys got me straight. Now I know for sure what to fix. I now know why I stayed a medic, that stuff is just to confusing, LOL.
-Stephen[C):-)]
One more question about the pantel. A lot of the times the M7 was placed in a front up position to increase elevation. In this situation would the pantel be horizontal to the floor of the vehicle still or to the ground?
Now for some update pics.
All black
Sand added
and then the olive drab
And the interior
Now nothing is glued in place yet, hopefully it will be easier to weather this way.
-Stephen[C):-)]
The pantel is ALWAYS vertical in a firing position. Whenever the assitant gunner elevates or depresses the tube, the gunner has to bring the pantel back onto his aiming point.
Quick note: The breech block needs to polished silver, as do the slide rails the tube sits on.
Oh yeah, I forgot to add… For Grunts, all you need to know about artillery is PSGGB… (Pull String, Gun Go Boom!)
Now I get it! Thanks, perfect description for a grunt. [:D]
[(-D] LMAO
Rounds Complete!!
More notes…the elevating gear on the underside, the gear teeth should be a gunmetal as they are not painted. Also the breech block as stated by Hans but also the inside of the breech will be shiny silver.
Handles on the handwheels will be black (bakelite).
When we are mostly assembled we can talk about a lanyard (the string you pull to make it go BOOM)
Rounds Complete!!
Once again my thanks guys, I’ve got some work to do today. I found out that on the model the pantel moves when you elevate the gun so I’ve taken the pantel off until I figure out what elevation I’m going to have the gun in. I’m on to weathering today, hopefully it will come out right.
As you can see I’m working at a feverish pace here. Got some work done on the hull. Decided to try the oil dot technique , let me know what you think.
Then tried my hand at some scratches
Please any critique’s to help me out will be appreciated. I’ll be working on the bogies next so I will have plenty of time to fix anything you guys might find.
-Stephen[C):-)]
Not a big deal but know that when you see sand camo’d US vehicles, it was applied at the unit level. The M7 would have left the factory completely OD. You’d get some guy with a spray gun painting the lower sections – I don’t think he would’ve painted the hull bottom or the minute crevices of the suspension. Here’s a time to make it look like it was painted and not modeled, if you know what I mean. Also be aware of the bolt strip at the top of the transmission. You’re gonna need to eliminate that seam as it’s integral to the transmission cover. Good luck
T26E4,
I usually don’t paint the hull bottom as my tanks are normally fixed on a base. So I used this area as a test bed for the fitering and chipping techniques. But, following along your line (if I understand correctly) I should shoot some OD probably around the bogie attachments, bottom of the transmission case and behind the drive sprockets?
-Stephen[C):-)]
Stephen,
Using the hull underside as a test bed is a very useful trick…especially when mounting on a base as no one but you will ever know it’s there! [;)] What colors did you use for the dot filter test? By the look of it you used a lot of White and equal amounts of Yellow and a red/brown color and may want to reduce that a little depending on the effect you’re looking for. To get the best results, you don’t want the streaking/colors to line up perfectly like you’ve done on the hull bottom as that will tend to produce a uniform result vs. a more random color variation pattern that is the usual expected result. On the scratching, as Roy points out, I would expect that to reveal OD and not necessarily be rusty/exposed metal as it looks right now but you can blend/adjust that as needed in the final weathering stages.
You’re making good progress with this one! [tup]
Thanks for looking in Bill! Point learned on the more random pattern. I went more random on the transmission case and hull sides. Looked much better. The streaking on the hull bottom was from a failed burnt umber wash that I tried to clean up. I will go back and put some OD chips in there. I appreciate the pointers.
-Stephen[C):-)]
Watching and learning! [tup]
Okay, got some more done on the hull. Tried to follow T26 and WBill’s advice. please let me know what you think.
This is where I’m at on the bogie assemblies.
I will dirty up the wheels more a little later. Please any comments or critiques are most welcome. BTW has anybody heard about Revell’s M-7 that’s coming out? New kit or a rebox?
-Stephen[C):-)]
P.S. I’ll be finishing up the day watching the 24hrs of lemans
Dunno about Revell’s… Usually, they looke like re-releases of Monograms 1/32 scale kits, but I don’t recall if Monogram ever put a Priest out or not… Or did they put out a Kangaroo? It would make sense since they put out both the Lee and Grant kits…
I bought the Academy M7 out of curiousity, but that’s gonna be about it… I still have two (three??) Italeri Priests in the stash…
Stephen - Coming along nicely, I like the look
Hans - I have a chuch rectory on the shelf myself!![;)]
Rounds Complete!!
Coming in late as I did on thsi one I can se the prgresion of how you reacted to the advise given. Everything look very well executed. Those last shots of the hull looks nice.
And it’s nice of you to give Mike something green to see[:D]
Wow… Just noticed that one of the Italeri Priests I have in the stash (got it from Ebay) has a PE detail set included…