OK, I don’t really think it’s the dark side… but, I, a confirmed wing_nut, have purchased my first figure. A 120mm Verlinden B-17 waist gunner. Looks pretty cool. So when I get started, please don’t get to upset with all the stupid questions I am surely going to ask.
Having never been in this section of the forum before just recently, I have been going over tons of posts looking for tips and gotten quite a few. Probably starting with getting a Shep Paine book.
But I do have a question already. I read somewhere, about a zillion years ago, that using 5 minute epoxy is a good choice since it can be applied thick, as in dimensionally, and it can easily be filed to replicate the folds of cloth in the surrounding area. Is this the way to go? And is there a “flesh” formula or does someone make a good flesh color? Only a very small bit of the face is the only skin onthe whole thing.
Wing_nut
the only question that is stupid is the one that isnt asked. Verlinden’s B17 crewman is a great fig and a good choice. I use epoxy and superglue both to work on figures, but after bouncing them all over the place going to contests, I now pin them together with wire as well as using five minute epoxy. Drill a hole in the shoulders and neck and use wire or even a paper clip to mount the parts. This small step will save you pain and frustrationlater on.
Ok, heres a new twist that i recently got turned on to and Im using it extensively. Mix medium superglue (usually the green top) with baby powder, about 2:1 or so to make a rather thick paste the consistancy of toothpaste. This will dry in about ten minutes. I now use it extensively for filling pinholes and it still holds very well as an adhesive. It is sandable within a few mintues after drying to a very fine surface. You will not be able to sculpt regular five minute epoxy in the manner you describe. You will want a two part putty based epoxy, either GW workshop green stuff or my personal favorite (and really easy to work with) magicsculp from TAPPlastics http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/category.php?bid=34&PHPSESSID=20070326164731101149929
Knead a ball up, lay it on where you want it, and using an almost dry paintbrush smooth it on in place. I replaced an ear recently on a large scale figure that was knocked off and it came out great.
For flesh, I would get some basic vallejo acrylics and begin working there. I worked with oils per Shep’s books for years, starting with 80MM girls, but now with acrylic gaming paint ( I use Reaper miniatures paint from the gaming shop, awesome stuff!) Im able to knock out skin tones quickly. Other options would include using Model Master fleshtones avialalbe on the extended model master paint rack. I just repainted a figure this weekend and she came out great airbrushing these paints.
HTH
David
Thanks for the pointer David. I have a few pinholes to deal with and will try your mixture.
For caucasian flesh, I use Vallejo red beige, or is it beige red? [:D] I’ll add varying amount of dark fleshtone for shadows and light flesh for highlights, firt adding it ot the base then using it very thinned and straight for the top highlights. Since your figure is posed at the open windon of a B-17 at 20,000 feet, you might want to add a bit of red to the mix to make him look colder.
I’ve never used anything but oils for figures. A mix of burnt sienna and white gives a good range of basic caucasian skin tones, with minute traces of red to “pink” it up where necessary.
Greg