So my question is only has anyone built either of these kits? Any suggestions? What’s in the box, actually? How well are these models?
http://www.modelsforsale.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=91925
http://www.modelsforsale.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=66560
Thanks in advance…
-Huxy the ignorant…
These aare both essentially the same model–just fancy repackaging and new box art. You can tell by the hull front. The driver’s compartment is different on the late.
I did the "initial version a while ago–a great kit!
and with some crew…
Here’s a “Late” kitbash of the old, inaccurate “late” model, (which had an incorrect-length hull) with the early kit. I used only the driver’s compartment piece, and the late muffler system to make this accurate version. Notice the difference on the front driver’s armor?
I had no cmplaints with the kit.
Yeah… Thanks for the info! 
What was the tracks made of? Were there any extra accesories? In that case, what?
Thanks for your time, doog… If I get a hummel, I’d be happy if I could even get it a 1/3 of your result! [#toast]
Thanks, Huxy! [:I]
Indy link tracks, no accessories–whatever else is in there is from my parts box.
You could probably fit an old pair of rubber band tracks to it?
well, you remember what the tracks that came with the box was made of? Or will that be a surprise? [:)]
And wow… you’re one of my idols in modelling… or would it be “Idool”? [;)]
LOL! [:I] Thanks Huxy! [:)]
(Oh–and the indy link tracks were plastic link variety)
Hi Huxy,
If it helps, you can preview the instructions for #6150 here: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10031494
and #6204 here: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10036032
actually been wanting to add one of these to my shelf also so thanks for the info Doog and two great builds there especially the first one, the interior looks great and the figures set it off very nicely great camo on the second one too.
Huxy,
If you pull the trigger and buy either of these kits, make a note that parts N10 and N11 are not to be glued; they are simply guides to facilitate the proper positioning of the gun. Also, the gun mechanism itself has lots of seams that will require careful sanding. This comes from experience; that’s why you’ll never see pics of my build, but maybe I’ll revisit the hummel again in the future and do it right.
Don
I have the “early” hummel kit in my stash. The second one that you have listed. My kit must have been a re-issue because it comes with the soldier and horse and the commander figure also AND a nice sheet of photo etch. I remember that because every time I get the urge to build it I open the box and see the photoetch and then put it aside for “next” time. Both are nice kits though.
Wow… Thanks everyone!
And PhilH, those links are awsome.
So the Initial Version has 4 men, while the Early Version has 1 man + 2 horses with 2 men…
What would all of you take? Are there any errors with either of these kits? as, a hull is too short or a cannon is too long?
Thanks for all the great comments, people![:D]
-Huxy
Since the reissues about 5-6 (?) years ago, you don’t have to worry abour the original kits’ inaccuracies, which were mainly that DML used standard PzIV hull for their kits instead of the lengthened ones actually used on the real vehicles.They were too short, and the engine cooling louvers on the side of the hull were the wrong shape too.
Unless you get one of the oriiginal kits–not even available anymore excepy like, on eBay, you shouldn’t have an issues at all with dimensional accuracy priblems.
Sorry to jack your tread. But, doog, I have one of the early kits 6004. What are the problems with this kit? I have a ton of PE for it and would like to build a kit that might get close to yours.
Sorry for the jacking but it might help you as well Huxy.
Myeah… butI think I’ve settled with the Initial version…
is the tracks included great, or is it recomended to get new track links?
Photoetch recommended?
The early kits were based on a flawed premise–DML just used one of their existing Pz IV hulls at the time (I think it was their “J” series if I remember correctly?) and simply “squished” the rest of the hull onto that.
This resulted in an incorrect hull length, and a funkyness about the little engine cooling vents on the sides of the hull plates–the wrong dimensions. You can’t fix that with PE or AM parts unfortunately. You MUST use the newer molding–think of the problem as being the very foundation of a house; whatever you build on it is going to be wrong as well if the fondation’s wrong.
That’s why in the second “late” model there, all I used from the incorrect “late” kit was the boxy armor plate around the driver’s compartment; it fit in perfectly fine. That, and the mufflers and maybe a few stowage extra’s.
Glad you liked my builds–gotta admit they’re both two of my favorites. [:I]
Huxy, the tracks are fine–unless there’s some issue about “open/closed guide horns” that I’m unaware of? I don’t really sweat about that particular detail, so I haven’t researched it.
Aye. Then I got what I need of information… I’ll order this with the Tamiya 1/350 Tirpitz and a few other goodies in a week or two then [#toast]
Ahh, a final thing while I have it… What glue do you guys recommend for Photoetch? Yeah, I figure it’s superglue… but the superglue I picked up for 1$ with three tubes in it weren’t that accurate… Where do I get “Accurate superglue”? [:)]
And thanks to all who posted and helped me! [tup][tup]
You can get “specialty”-type tubes from Hobby Shops. You should have “thin” type, and “Gel” or “thick” type, and some accelerator to help set it instantly if you need to. Also, get some precision tips as well.