Hey gang,
Whatever I try, I can’t seem to get Future to work correctly. I either end up with an orange peel effect or runs. I’ve tried every combination of air pressure, distance from model and varying how fast or slow I sweep across the piece. And I always end up with the either of the same two end results.
So, can someone recommend a clear gloss coat that is damn-near idiot proof?
Thanks,
Fred
Fred,
Idiot-proof? Not possible—we idiots are too damn clever![#wstupid] I’ve had some of the same problems, and I still haven’t figured out what causes them, because they don’t seem consistent. [banghead]
However, I recently tried Polly Scale Satin and their Flat. Went on wonderfully and produced beautiful finishes. [{(-_-)}]If their clear is as easy to use (I haven’t tried it yet) it would definitely get my recommendation. The product number is 404100.
With Future, have you tried multiple light coats applied just when the preceding coat is barely tack-free? Also, heat curing seems to help after the coat is tack-free. (Remember Future is tack-free in fifteen minutes or less, but takes two days to cure fully.)
[(-D] We are, aren’t we [8-]?
I’ve done some brush work with PS flat, it does give nice results (but make sure you stir it because that stuff is thick).
I’ll have to check out the satin and the gloss. I just wish this stuff wasn’t so darn expensive.
Do the PS finishes need to be thinned to airbrush and if so, is it the same as paint (2% milk consistency)?
-Fred
I thinned mine to that consistency. I also added a drop of acrylic retarder. I want to try it without the retarder and see whether the results are different.
Hmmm, my PS flat is not that thick. Maybe you have an old bottle that has lost some solvent?
BTW: Have you tried adding retarder to Future? That seems to help, although you have to be even more carefull about runs.
I thought I was the retarder added to the future [(-D]
When I first got my bottle of flat, I shook it around for five minutes, like I do with every new bottle I recieved. I brushed it on and noticed that the sheen hadn’t changed. So I broke it out a metal rod that I use for stirring and the stuff was thick like glue. It took me about 3 minutes of solid stirring to finally break up all the clumps. But when I brushed it on again, it made one heck of a difference.
So now I just stir everything instead of shaking. It’s messier, but at least I know I’m getting a good mix.
-Fred
Using yourself as a retarder might work, but you have to get all of yourself into that tiny bottle…and then you have to go through the airbrush……[8-]
I see what happened. Flatting pigments tend to settle hard after a long time, and redispersing then is a royal PITA—and I’m not talking about a Greek flat bread. [dinner]
Stirred, not shaken. Stiring model paints is always the way to go. Shaking such a small volume is so inefficient in terms of fluid mechanics as to be almost worthless. In the case of a hard settle, an electric stirring device is definitely in order. Be sure to strain the thinned paint before it goes into your air brush! Some of those lumps never come out.
Light to medium coats not too far from the surface of the model will help prevent the orange peal texture. Keeping the airbrush constantly moving will prevent too much build up and dripping. I find it helpful to spray the hard to reach areas first, otherwise you risk build up on the surrounding areas if you’ve already sprayed them.
For a clear gloss, I have had great luck with Gunze’s clear. Just be sure to thin it with tamiya thinner and NOT water. Gives a finish as shiny as future, but much easier (IMHO) to apply.