I will be resuming my M151A2 project shortly. It is molded in something similar to NATO green, and will be painted three-color camo with an olive-drab (FS34087) base. I will also have to do some filling, and I’m seeking recommendations for a good high-quality putty. After I apply said putty, will there be a noticeable difference in hue if I shoot the olive-drab right over it, or should I use a prime-coat? If a prime-coat is necessary, what would work best under olive-drab Model Master acrylic?
The easy answer, I’m sure, would be “paint the puttied areas black,” but that won’t be possible in some areas.
I use super glue as a filler. Even with most putty, once sanded there shouldn’t be a different hue to the puttied areas (unless you are doing a bare metal finish), What 3-color camo are you trying to paint the M-151 in that has an olive drab base? I can’t think of any that have OD in it.
I’m not too sure of the specific name, but it’s the typical camo scheme seen on U.S. military vehicles: olive-drab or NATO green base (by the time I transfered to USS Peleliu, Marine vehicles were NATO green exclusively), red-brown, and black. Posts five and six in this thread deal with the camo job I’ll be painting.
If I’m correct, NATO green can be made by mixing FS34079 and FS34102? Is that what I’d want for the camo scheme?
I ruined a model by using putty to fill in sink holes and shoot Vallejo acrylic straight on, without the primer. The hue difference between putty and plastic was still visible through 8-10 coats of acrylic. By that time it had become a personal battel between me and that darned paint - the paint coats were so thick that none of the finer details on the model were visible… Not a big model, nor a lot of work lost, but not at all fun…
Test on some piece of sprue and see if you a primer paint coat is sufficient, or if you need a dedicated coat of surface primer.
Use the NATO green for that camoflage not the OD. I’m not sure how to go about mixing for the color, but Tamiya makes a reasonable likeness of NATO Green in their range.
For what it is worth I am finding that Auto-body 'Glazing" putty works pretty wewll. It is very cheap about $2-$3 USD for a pretty good size tube. I mix it with Rubbing Alcohol to thin it and it really gets into the wholes and seams well. I have tried the Squadron putty w/o as much success.
As far as the primer or paint goes. Primer for sure. 1) it covers the area and gives you the same tone throughout the paint scheme. 2) it helps find those spots that might need that last little “fine” grit sanding. This has been working well for me the last couple of kits I have built.
I use to hate filling and sanding! Now it isn’t as bad. I am still learning the skill but the Glazing putty seems a little more foergiving. Good luck.
Where would I purchase that type of putty? Sounds like an auto-parts store or Wal-Mart item.
As far as how the paint will look, I’m sure that I’ll be able to find more than enough scrap plastic to use for testing purposes–hopefully some spare parts from the Academy kit escaped the trash-can. I’m still stuck on what to use for a prime-coat, if necessary; I’m thinking some other shade of Model Master acrylic, as I can’t recall having seen primer made specifically for that formulation.
Where would I purchase that type of putty? Sounds like an auto-parts store or Wal-Mart item.
Yes I got it from a local Auto-parts store…I think advanced. The tube is good size and I have used it for a copule builds and barely made a dent. It is very easy to thin with rubbing alcohol and fills seams great. Good luck.
Phil, I ran the Testors stock number through my favorite online hobby shop. The search resulted in FS34079 in enamel form. As I have FS34079 in acrylic form, I should be in good shape for completing the MUTT.
I’ll check the links you posted when it comes time to paint the camo job. Thanks for your help!
Evercoat is a great product. It feathers really nicely. I have had a can for over 10 years. One can should last a lifetime… A few things to keep in mind though.
It has a really strong chemical odor, and should only be used in a well ventilated area.
Apply it in thin layers, as it creates quite a bit of dust wnen sanded.
I would reccomend that if you are planning on rescribing panel lines, that filling the area with plastic would be better. The Evercoat doesn’t scribe very well, as if has such a fine grain to it, it tends to fall away leaving a less than clean edge.
That said, I highly reccomend it for those who do a lot of bodywork, conversions, or kitbashing. You usually have to buy it from an auto paint supplier. A good on-line source would be TCP Global. I am not affiliated with them in any way, I have just seen it on their website while searching for other products. Good luck.
Don’t think I ever heard it mentioned here but Aves is the best putty you can use. It actually is a two part clay-like resin that is kneaded together and becomes activated. To be specific Aves Epoxy Sculpt. Open working time is about two to three hours before it starts to set. It dries rock hard in 24 hours then you can sand it to an absolute glass smooth finish, prime it then paint it. I’ve used it to fill in large and small gaps, cracks, bond broken pieces together and whatever repairs you can think of. The big thing you should know is that there is zero shrinkage over time. All other brands of putty cannot make that claim.