Ideas/suggestions on using liquid masking for canopies? I haven’t used it before, but seems like it would be relatively simple and useful (but everytime I think that…). Any feedback would be much appreciated!
I agree, it seems like it’d be pretty useful but I have yet to try it. Not sure the best way to do it. I have used the Abteilung liquid mask for wavy type camo patterns on planes and it worked great for me; albeit smelly. I’ll keep an eye on this post to see the replies!
I use it. Love the stuff. I use Gunze Sangyo Mr Masking Sol R #M133 which I source from Sprue Brothers. Right now they are currently out of stock but are expecting more to arrive this week.
I use Hobbico’s Master Mask and have found that several heavy applications are usually required to build up a ‘skin’ that is thick enough to pull up in one go. If you do go for several layers then allow each layer to thoroughly dry before adding the next. I always use a fresh #11 blade and a steady, light pressure to cut a canopy mask.
I’ve been using MicroMark’s masking film, always does the job, no smell, but it does thicken up over time making it a little more difficult to use. (Or maybe I’m not building fast enough!!)
So far I have not had good luck with liquid masking stuff. I know folks who do, suggestions from them are to change brands, or to practice more. I get the idea that learning to use this stuff properly has a learning curve about like airbrushing.
Problems have ranged from not good coverage so paint leaks through, to not being able to remove the stuff afterwards.
Don, the only learning curve I’ve encountered was to use more of the stuff to avoid bleed through and incomplete coverage. As for it not being able to remove it… I haven’t yet had that issue. Keep trying.
Don: I have been using Microscale mask found it is easily removed with a small piece of scotch clear tape if you have probluems getting it off. ACESES5 ON BENCH DRAGON STU 111 G [bgr][proplr]
I have used Microscale and a few other modelling specific brands, but what I like most is the cheap watercolor liquid masking agent found at any art store. They’re water based, don’t dry out or shrink, flow better and comes off clean. One thing I do with all liquid masking on canopies is to tape up along the edges and then fill in the centers. Create cleaner frames.
I’ve had good luck using “Fasmask”. Looks like a bottle of blue really thick Elmers glue!
It does require several coats.
You have to be careful applying/removing it as if you get some into a painted area that area may peel off.
Micro-sol. I’ve heard wonderful things about it. I recommend it for anything you want to look professional without bleedunder, or not coming back off right away.
~ Cobra Chris
There is quite a learning curve. I am still learning (and tearing my hair when it doesn’t work as it should. I have troubles either not masking well enough, or more of a problem in that I can’t get it off easily.
It sounds to me like you aren’t putting it on thick enough.