Yeah dudes if you look closely,the main mast is clearly longer than the foremast.
Further progress. 
Mounted up the mizzen and rigged the shrouds and the first course of ratlines on the port side.The shrouds are very structural as they stiffen the plastic masts noticeably. 
I would like to offer up some hopefully positive and helpful suggestions.
First.
It looks like you are rigging your lines too tightly. You can see this by the slight bow in the main mast. Kits w/ plastic masts and spars are notorious for doing this. Rigging does not need to be so tight that you can pluck it like a guitar string, but just enough to “look” reasonably tight, that is, not sagging. You can get away with much tighter rigging by replacing the masts and spars with wood or brass rod [some go together in two pieces and are hollow in the middle, perfect for reinforcement w/ some brass rod] Plastic gets particularly flimsy when you get to any masts or spars above the top mast. Even lower at smaller scales.
Second.
A good way to ensure that your rat lines come out clean is to first figure out how far apart you want them, then draw horizontal lines on a piece of paper or index card the same distance apart. Place it behind the shrouds and use that as a guide for spacing your rat lines and keeping them level.
There are probably a dozen if not more threads in this forum that go into detail about these things if you want/need more detailed information.
You have not done very much rigging at this point, so going back and loosening a few spots should not be that much work.
Hope this does not sound too critical. I have personally always been very grateful when others here offer up perspectives that have helped me with what I was working on.
That said… I can not wait to see her fully fitted out and afloat. Thats a challenge I am not willing to take on myself.
Yes thanks for the tips.My previous rigging on my wooden Sark was different because the wood dowels are much stronger and did not bend.The ratlines need improvement that hopefully I can do better with my next ship model.
I decided to use the vac form sails.I used a microdrill to drill the holes used to lace the sails onto the yard.I used one long piece of thread to do so. 
Of course you did. Easy way to do it.
Yes it is an effective method.
Lacing up more sails. 
arnie60, I actually have found out smaller scales are more forgiving when it comes to plastic spars bending under tension. Small scale spars are usually a bit over scale in diameter, and since they are shorter than larger ones, they do not bend that much. The jib boom in the Heller Victory, for example, is flimsy as hell and NEEDS replacing, but that of the Revell kit is perfectly straight after being rigged and took quite a bit of tension.
I have found that use of thread to be effective in correcting the warp at the top of the foremast.
Sewed on the jibs and bow sails. 
clic the pic to view the clip
Nice video. Will you do one when you float it? I’m doing a wood kit, a flattie that has been requested to see how it does in the tub. Not sure I want to do that though.
EJ
Yes i will!By flattie do you mean aircraft carrier?
Nope, it’s a Cheasapeak Bay “flattie”, a coastal boat used in the 1900’s, to transport goods and fish for clams etc. This is the kit. It’s a wood kit. I’m about 75% done with it. 
EJ
OK!Can you post a pic of it?
Here you go Phil, This is a plank on frame build. The do-da’s in front are the centerboard, rudder, gunnel trim, mast and booms, all ready to be installed yet. Then the rigging and a bit of dressing, rope coils and other trappings of a working oyster boat. I boogered the deck stain yesterday by spilling a bit of clear gloss on it. Instead of letting it dry and sanding the lump down, I tried to wipe it off, therby removing the layer of Vallejo matt clear and the wiped stain under it back to the white base. Crap. I might have to cover it with a crate or a lobster pot or something. Anyway, it’s been a fun little wood kit to build. I like these to space in between regular plastic kit builds as it takes me a year to to an aircraft carrier. Here she is at present. Should have her done in a week or so. 
EJ
Did I read the scale o nthe box right, and that’s 3/8" = 1’-0" ? This can be a great scale to work in with the Midwest kits.
Looks really good!