Lindberg 1930 Ford Model A Pickup 1/32 Build

Modeling Subjects Autos
1

Modelers

Going to start this tomorrow and

figure out how to upload pictures.

Will hand paint this with Tesors Acrylics,

yellow and black like on the boxtop.

Any pointers about this?

Thanks!

2

For help on posting pictures, go to the forum help forum down near the bottom of the list of FSM forums. If none of the old threads work, ask for help again.

3

Don

Thanks for the response!

Goal today is to get one part painted on tree.

Uploading the pictures of this should work.

Thanks!

4

Are you doing a stock Model A, or a custom? 1930 Model A commercials were painted either Rockmoss Green or Bluerock Green on the bodies, running gear/fenders were black. Rockmoss is a very dark forest green, Blue rock is a little bluer in cast. By 1930 fleet orders could be any color they wanted in the line. For a custom anything goes of course.

Stock engines were a grayish blue green with cadmium plated head nut bolts, transmission and all other engine accessories were black.

I’ve actually restored several Model A’s and am anxious to follow your build.

5

Willys MB

Thanks!

It will be stock.

This is first model built in a while so it may not be Smithsonian Museum level. :slight_smile:

PM me if you want to discuss real world Model A’s, WWII jeeps and general treadhead

hobby stuff.

If there is a section here we can talk about it there without the PM stuff.

Model Maker

6

Modelers

Forgot one thing. PREPARATION!

Going to:

wash parts tree in soapy water

fill spare jar with thinner to soak brush IMMEDIATELY after using

get wax paper out to set painted parts on tree on

Should have success tomorrow!

Model Maker

7

Modelers

Rockin’ good news!

Two hood halves have one coat of hand painted Testor’s Yellow Acrylic on them.

Some observations:

Paint is pretty thin.Resisted urge to put another coat on now.

Will get bigger bottles of paint in the future.

Did not wimp out and use up Testors cleaner to clean brush.

Used thinner, like anyone would. It worked.

Saving cleaner for airbrush.

Can forsee having to custom mix a brown for leather bench seat

and different brown for wood pickup bed.

Other than that yellow, black and silver (for ‘chrome’) like boxtop.

Thanks

8

Modelers

More progress!

Hand painted two body halves, might get some more done today.

Wiping paint off the brush after first cleaning is a big help.

Paint looks like it’s finally thoroughly mixed, no white on bottom.

I’m just painting outside of parts, is that correct?

Not painting inside where it won’t show.

Thanks!

9

model make

How is the A progressing?

Any luck on getting pictures to “illuminate” your text?

10

Duster

Thanks for the response!

Still working with yellow.

Painted chassis topside and bed.

Probably going to do silver today and maybe some black.

Just chipping away at it!

Have yet to focus my full attention on photos.

Thanks!

11

Modelers

Painted wheels silver yesterday.

They are two piece unchromed parts.

Painted inside and outside of each half.

Next is paint tire part of wheels black.

Thanks!

12

Modelers

Painted steering wheel, radiator, rearend, headlights and radius rods.

Going to paint undercarriage, bench seat and pickup bed next.

Will need to do taping on undercarriage.

Still deciding whether to mix brown paint or paint seat and pickup bed black.

After that it will be glue it together time.

Thanks!

13

Modelers

Getting ready to glue it together.

I have just wholesale painted everything on trees.

I sort of remember the Testors glue will eat up paint

where it squeezes out of joints.

Next kit I will look kit over and figure out what can be glued

together BEFORE painting and what can be painted on trees.

Thanks!

14

Hi , Modelmake !

I don’t think you need to worry . I paint 90% of the parts on a model before gluing. The reason is , it all goes together better . T.B.

15

Tanker Builder

Thanks for the response!

What about glue tips?

I do a lot of short sessions so would I be going through a lot of these.

Another question, I seem to remember instructions saying put glue on

both surfaces.

Is that the way to do it?

Thanks

Model Maker (Setup cut off letter)

16

Hi !

Well :

for one thing I don’t use any glues that require an applicator tip ! I use mainly Testors or Tamiya’s glues in the bottles . I apply it with a very fine brush . Not the ones in the cap, which I remove and use for other stuff !

I do use Testors in the weird black bottle ( odd shaped one ) and that’s where I need a very strong slow setting joint . Just keep the tips clean by squeezing the bottle after .Let the air escape , Gently ! Then when the bottle inhales the remaing glue is drawn back into the bottle .

This works for my C.A. bottles and I only have to change tips maybe once every six months .Tip cleanliness and openess is paramount . Good luck on your builds .T.B. P.S. Remember this. And it’s very important .When you put pressure on a tube of glue .It’s going to continue to flow until the pressure is released . Meaning , when you are NOT squeezing it anymore ! Also , remember this , always store glue TUBES , tip UP somewhere safe !

17

Tanker Builder

Do you apply glue to both surfaces?

Brushing sounds ok but how do you clean brush afterward?

Yep, I’ve got a black bottle of that ‘Liquid Cement’ is what

it says on label. Very serious looking bottle of glue.:slight_smile:

Model Maker

18

Builders

Made the decision to tape.

I wanted to avoid it but probably would have ended up with brush

marks on adjoining colors.

Cut little strips from roll of masking tape.

Complain. Complain.:slight_smile:

Model Maker

19

Sounds like you’re making good progress on your A. Pictures would be great. Just a note on stock colors for a '30 Model A:

  • chassis were all over semi gloss black.

  • fenders, splash shields, and running boards were dipped in a gloss black.

  • all body components, cab, bed etc. were “sprayed” body color Inside and out before being mounted to the chassis. As a commercial vehicle the paint wasn’t buffed out except by special order, so would be semigloss. Most restorers do a gloss finish which is actually easier to do today.

  • that included the wooden slats and tie strips on the bed. Many restorers Do a natural finish on the bed wood because it looks nice, but they never came that way from the factory. Other exposed wood, like the beam’s the bed rests on, would be a dull black wood preservative.

  • interior metal was sprayed at the same time as the rest of the body, and hence body color. The trim cardboards on the doors, kick panels, thin strips around the door frame, and the seat were a black artificial leather in 30/31, brown in 28/29.

  • front bumper was “Rustless steel”, Ford’s term for stainless. No rear bumper. Same finish on the instrument panel, door handles, window cranks, and latches.

Colors for the Model A are incredibly well documented for a car only built for 4 years. The national club’s judging standards are close to 600 pages long. Google the Model A Ford Club of America (MAFCA) and the Model A Restorers Club (MARC) for lots of photos and info.

20

Forgot to mention, wheels came from the factory painted black, dealers could paint them in a few other colors on special order to compliment the body color, but silver wasn’t one of them. Tires were a dull black, few firms would spring for the expensive white walls. Far more restored Model As today have white walls than ever had them back then.