Oh, sure, Tilley. Go find and old thread that is designed to make me feel supremely inadequate!
Scratch built rain coats?? Puhleeease!
That is really nice work that he did. I like the open hatches.
And I noticed that he filled in the portholes. Which is something I had not thought about.
And so I appeal again: should I leave the portholes as open holes or fill them in with some clear stuff? And when in the process? As you can see, I am well into the painting, etc.
Several products on the market are designed for making clear windows and portholes on models. Testor’s makes one; I think it’s called “Window Maker and Clear Parts Cement,” or something like that. [Later edit: here’s a link: http://www.testors.com/product/136938/8876C/_/Clear_Parts_Cement_Window_Maker .] Microscale, the decal manufacturer, makes another; it’s called Micro Crystal-Clear." [Later edit: here’s a link: http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-9&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=3 .] Both of them are thick, white liquids that, when wet, look remarkably like Elmer’s glue. (In fact I think that may, in essence, be what they are.) Put a drop of this stuff in the opening and let it dry. It’ll stretch a gap of a quarter of an inch or thereabouts. When it’s dry, give it a coat of some clear gloss - but nothing water-soluble. (Poly-Scale clear gloss, for instance, will soften it up and you’ll have to start over. Don’t ask me how I found that out.) It isn’t a perfect solution; the surface of the “port” will be slightly concave. But if you aren’t trying to show off what’s inside it, it probably will be satisfactory.
The best time to apply any of those liquid products is as late as possible - maybe as the last stage before you pronounce the model finished.
I really like the lightship model in that other thread. As I said in that thread, it’s got about as much genuine character as any model I’ve ever seen. But it looks to me like DerOberst is well on the way to building a model of the same standard. I’ll be really interested in watching its progress.
Here is a quick WIP update before the week begins. I am waiting for the SPAR paint and the PE Ladders, etc, so progress will be limited for a few days~
Comments and suggestions welcome!
What a great “fun” little boat.
LOVE the red!
Folks,
Here is a quick update. After a short delay, the PE has arrived. The ladders and valves from Masterpieces in Minature http://www.minmbox387.com/index.html#Contents are excellent.
Here are some updated WIP pictures. Again, the major assemblies are not glued down.
Some of the PE is not yet painted, but the ladders on the masts and the funnel have a coat of SPAR airbrushed on.
And worse than that, I seem to have lost a few pieces! Scouring the workshop looing for them!!
Enjoy!
Greetings,
I am posting some updated WIP pictures. The deckhouses and masts are not secured, and I am working on all the smaller details. Items added (or to be added!) include:
Photo etch stairs and ladders
Hoses and reels
Oars
The pictures wash out some of the details, and much is still to be done, enjoy!
You’re doing a great job on this model! [tup] This isn’t a kit you often see built and you’re definitely doing it justice. (The PE details really add to the model, too). What technique did you use to produce the rust effect on the anchors?
I built Frog’s kit of the British “South Goodwin” lightship (in about the same scale) earlier this year (http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=39427). I’ve now bought the Lindberg Nantucket lightship too (most of the Lindberg reissues are now available here in the UK) and plan to build it in a year or so.
this is great I love light ships. I have a question though do you think this would be ale to adaptable to RC? if so I am going to have to look into it. you have done a great job its gonna look super!
But they never move!!! LOL yes I like this model too.
The rust effect is Rustall. Great stuff I learned to use making PzKfw exhausts look rusty! (the Nantucket is my first ship model in 35 years…)
I painted the anchors red, then dry brushed a few steel spots. Then I used the Rustall Rust and black. After a few coats I added some baking soda to give the rough surface effect. There is also some work on the anchor chain, which is a re-purposed section of a 1/35 scale tow chain from a sherman tank.
There is also a bit of rust on places the anchors would touch, etc.
Wow! Your work is terrific! Great work on a rather ungainly subject.
Good luck on your Nantucket build!
This is ready for RC right out of the box. Push it out into the pond, drop anchor, wait 90 days. Voila! Lighthship in action!!
Seriously, it has a big sturdy hull and a large single prop. So am sure you could make that work. And if you got creative, I am sure you could rig the lights to at least glow!
That will work actually my rc club is doing more and more indoor demos and this will be perfect for the pool. I dont plan on zipping it around the pool just floating around and maybe I can get the anchors to work have it go out drop anchor and then start the lights up.
wife just ordered this kit for me she heard me talking to a friend about it and ordered it yep shes a keeper.
Wow! That is awesome. Be sure to post some pictures.
(Of the model, not the wife…)
Time for an updated set of pictures and a request for help.
I need to figure out what to do with the searchlight looking gizmos on the bridge.
The large one I drilled out, painted silver, and filled with clear. It looks slightly yellow and somewhat transparent.
I have no idea what the rest of the gear is, so I have no idea how to paint it. Help!
The model is close to done. I have to glue down the deckhouses and masts, touch up some painting goofs, and then do the rigging. The rigging you see is just an experiment. I added attachment points for the wires on the masts.
I have done some weathering, but the flash washes it out a bit.
Comments and suggestions appreciated.
And help me decide what to do with the signal gear!
I LOVE what you’ve done. Great fun!
In answer to your question(s)…the two smaller electric “lamps” were used as spot lights and had vanes mounted on them so they could be utilized as signal lamps, i.e. flashing lights to communicate with other vessels. As to your last photo, going from left to right on the bridge roof(flying bridge) the equipment is spot/signal lamp, compass binnacle, large search light, engine order telegraph, spot/signal light. For some reason your model is missing the ship’s wheel which was mounted behind the binnacle. Perhaps the new release doesn’t provide one…I’m going by the original PYRO instructions from 1955. Also the bell mounted on the pilot house(bridge) would never be painted, so a little brass paint would fix that…and that thing that looks like a hocky stick molded into the bridge front is a fog nozzle, attached to a fire hose used to apply water in case of fire, it shoul be painted red…and your running light boards should be painted black as white paint would be too reflective and cause the red/green lights to exhibit the wrong type of illumination on the real ship. As to the painting of the items on the flying bridge, white is appropriate, however the face of the engine order telegraph should be painted black, as it was glass on the real ship with all the attendent lettering on it’s face. Of course in this scale it would be a tough thing to achieve…[:D] As to the signaling…I’m guessing you refer to the signal flag halyards…they would be attached to the masts’ antenna spar, two to each side. The halyards(rope) would be tied off to the safety railings on the flying bridge. When I served on the NANTUCKET we only utilized the halyards to run up our radio call sign flags leaving and arriving home port…
the only difference between the NANTUCKET lightship and the county jail is the fact the jail can’t sink…
Mike M. Lightship sailor
Mike,
Thanks for the input. I will have to digest this in detail, but a few off-the cuff responses:
The wheel is still on the sprue waiting for paint. I was keeping it off until I painted the other gizmos so I could still get to them. I was planning to paint the wheel as varnished wood. Is that correct? Or was it steel painted some color?
I was planning to paint the bell, just have not gotten there.
I have not painted the ‘hockey stick’ yet because I was not sure what color (red!) and because I was debating making a new one. I don’t really like the on that is on there and might make a scratch built one.
As for the rest, I will get busy making changes!!! Thanks again for the input.
Peter
The ship’s wheel on the NANTUCKET were of brass construction, as was the pedestal. On the flying bridge the wheel was not painted(the wheel pedestal was painted white) but was usually kept protected with a canvas cover to minimize the dulling of the brass. Still the Atlantic sea envoirment would give the brass wheel a green “patina” and depending on the ship’s skipper, the flying bridge wheel was polished on a weekly basis, weather permitting. The wheel in the pilot house was polished daily, it gave the man on watch something to do… If you make a fog nozzle from brass wire(or stretched sprue) it would enhance the models appearence rather than just a “blob” on the bulkhead. Well, you’re really going to town on this kit, I’ll be interested to see how it turns out.
Mike